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<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=>
The E-Mail Newsletter
for Bench Jewelers
October 2005
Volume 6 Issue 10 circulation over 3,800
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
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<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVEREs TIPS FOR JEWELERS
Tips for Jewelers
Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a
new technique, or brush up on basic
skills.
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on Platinum from
Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench
a little easier and more productive from
GERRYs GEMZ
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS
Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Jewelry Dealers
World Trade Network
http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com
<=> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <=>
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the
ongoing discussions, or just read and take in
all the advice from many excellent jewelers
from around the world.
Membership includes: Topical Discussion
Channels, including
Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many
more. You may buy, sell
and trade on the
Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<=> <=> REVEREs TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
From Alan Revere
NO SWEAT: Sweat Soldering Made Easy
Nearly every bench jeweler who has tried it finds soldering a small piece of sheet cleanly and perfectly onto a larger one exceedingly difficult. Soldering a pierced monogram onto a sheet, for instance, is no simple matter. Most bench jewelers would sweat solder the pieces together (i.e. solder them in stages) by first flowing solder onto the back of the monogram and then placing it onto the sheet. The assembly is heated, and the two pieces join when the solder flows for a second time.
The trick is to have just the right amount of solder in the right places. Too often, not all areas of the seam are soldered completely, or they are flooded with too much solder (or both). To sweat solder with accuracy, you must first properly prepare the top piece to receive the solder, by routing out metal from the back.
Use a pair of dividers to trace the outline onto the back, leaving an inscribed border about 0.5 mm inside the edge. Now, with a ball bur, carve away the surface about 0.2 mm deep, leaving the border intact. Flow solder into the recessed area and then file the surface, so that the solder and the surrounding edge are perfectly flat. Place the monogram in position on the clean backing and trace it with a pencil. Flux within the traced outline, then flux and position the monogram. Heat from below—and watch with delight as the monogram settles gently into place, with a perfectly even seam all around. Once you have tried this, you will never attempt sweat soldering any other way!
This Tip is from 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers
written by Alan Revere and published by
MJSA/AJM Press.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
A dream is your creative vision for your life in the future. You must break out of your current comfort zone and become comfortable with the unfamiliar and the unknown. Denis Waitley
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
101 Bench Tips for Jewelers by Alan Revere
Alan Revere—acclaimed designer, author, and
educator—now shares his most valuable bench
tips and tricks in 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers.
Based on the monthly column in AJM, this book
will help any jeweler speed production, improve
quality, and raise profits at the bench.
Filled with helpful illustrations, this
publication covers all aspects of bench work,
from soldering to stone setting, piercing to
final polish. This book
is sure to be a
resource you will reference for years to come.
For more information, visit
www.ajm-magazine.com/pub_press.php
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<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=>
Royal
Flush
By
A sign on the side of a plumbers truck reads: In our business a FLUSH is better than a FULL- HOUSE. Thankfully this is not the type of flush this article is about. Instead, this article is about a setting style for small stones that has become very popular in recent years.
The stones are set down into the metal without beads or prongs. The tables of the stones are set even with the metal surface in a modified bezel. This is where the name Flush Set derives from; as the stones are set flush with the metal.
Flush setting is an advanced setting procedure. Precise craftsmanship must be executed throughout the process to accomplish the desired look.
First, lay out the stones in the desired pattern, and mark the metal in the center of each stone. Rubbing beeswax over the metal surface and placing the stones table down will help in positioning the stones.
Next, drill a hole through the metal using a small drill bit (less than 1/2 the diameter of the stone) on each of your center marks. The more accurately you drill the hole to begin with, the less work you will have to do later. Then inspect your work to make certain the holes are precisely drilled where the center of each stone is to be.
If any holes are off center, you will need to enlarge the hole to center it. Use a Krause bur to cut the side of the hole towards the center of the stone. Once all the holes are on center, re-drill the hole with a larger drill bit. Use a drill bit 2/3 the diameter of the stone, and drill through the metal exactly where the center of the stone is to be.
Cut azures on the backside of the metal to clean up the holes. A simple cone shaped azure can be cut using a bud bur.
To cut the seat for the stones begin with a straight sided setting bur one size smaller than the diameter of the stone. For example, if your stone is 2.5 mm in diameter select the 2.3 mm bur. Cut the seat to a depth that when set, the table of the stone will be even with the metal.
Next use a hart bur the same diameter or slightly smaller than the stone. Carefully undercut the seat to allow the stone to snuggly fit into the seat. Begin by holding the bur at a 45-degree angle and cut into one side of the seat. Then with a steady hand, straighten the bur to a 90-degree angle undercutting the opposite side of the seat. The shank of the bur must be held precisely at a 90-degree angle to the metal surface or else the seat will be cut on an angle and the stone cannot be set straight. Undercutting the seat in this manner allows you to leave extra metal above the girdle of the stone to use in tightening it.
Cutting the seat is the most important part of this setting procedure. Cut the seat too large and you will not be able to tighten the stone without marring the surface of the metal. Cut the seat too small and you may chip the stone trying to force it into its seat.
Next, lay the stone into its seat and press it into place with a brass pusher. The stone should fit snuggly in its seat.
Using a small, highly polished, burnisher rub the metal down and over the edge of the stone. Hold the burnisher at a 45-degree angle and rub around the top edge of the hole. Due to the process of tightening the stone, some setters refer to this setting technique as Rub Down Setting instead of Flush Setting.
Some jewelers use a hammer and punch or a hammer handpiece with their flex-shaft to hammer the metal down over the stone. As a result, this setting technique is sometimes referred to as Hammer Set. If you use this technique be certain to hold the punch at a 45 degree angle to the metal surface and tap lightly ONLY on the edge of the metal until it is worked down over the stone.
Do not attempt to tighten the stone by hammering on the metal surface forcing metal over the stone. This causes a dip in the surface surrounding the stone, resulting in an unsatisfactory appearance. Burnishing the metal over the stone is the preferred method of tightening the stone. If the seat is cut properly you will not need to use a hammer.
This setting procedure should result in the stone set down in the metal with a highly polished beveled rim surrounding the stone. If you play your hand right, you can Trump this technique and deal yourself a truly Royal Flush Set Stone.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
The act of taking the first step is what separates the winners from the losers. Brian Tracy
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
JewelersTraining.com
JewelersTraining.com is the first and finest On Demand Jewelry Video Training Website. JewelersTraining.com is designed by Jewelers for Jewelers. Our mission is to provide jewelers with the best online jewelry education with On Demand Videos and other training resources.
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips that make working with Platinum or
working at the bench in general - easier from
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
PIPE DREAMS: An Easy Sandblasted Finish
Imagine you must apply a sand-blasted finish to a surface, but have neither a compressor nor a sand-blasting tool. The solution? Get a piece of PVC pipe! Simply close one end of the pipe permanently with a cap, attach a removable cap to the other end, and fill the pipe one-third of the way with beach sand. Drop your jewelry inside and tape the removable cap to the pipe. Now shake the tube vigorously for a few minutes. Remove the piece from the tube – and enjoy the even sand finish you have just applied!
You can also achieve a nice sand finish by putting the piece in a rotating tumbler one- third filled with sand and running it overnight.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
The race is not always to the swift, nor the battle to the strong. Ecclesiastes 9:11
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
United Precious
Metal Refining
United is a full service refiner for Gold, Silver, Platinum, & Palladium. We specialize in Refining for the jewelry Industry, processing everything from sweeps to karat scrap.
Technical assistance on all phases of manufacturing and jewelry casting is only a phone call away. Call us today at 1-800-999-3463 or visit us online at
United Precious
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<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
A dirty shop affects profits because of
the
high value of the metal that is
lost. Small
pieces of gold on the floor from
filing,
buffing, and other operations in the
shop,
cling to the bottom of shoes. If the floor is
not swept regularly, the gold literally
walks
out the door of the shop. If not collected at
the source, gold dust is spread around
the
shop. It is then carried out of the shop on
the hands, clothes, and shoes of the
workers.
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When taking in a ring to be
sized measure the
width and thickness of the
shank and write them
on the envelope.
For example: Shank: 2.6 mm X 1.3 mm
Then after sizing if there
is any question if
the shank was thinned too
much you can re-
measure and check.
This takes just a little
time at take-in but
can save doing half-shanks
for no-charge.
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< < < <> > > > > >
Wear goggles when using a bur, to
protect your
eyes.
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< < < <> > > > > >
Mounting a metal thimble on
the front edge of
your bench makes a handy
container for liquid
lubricants.
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< < < <> > > > > >
When soldering a butt joint on thin
metal it is
better to cut the joint on a
bevel. This will
give you more surface area to solder
and will
make stronger joint.
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< < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with
our readers send it in an e-mail to
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Nothing can add more power to your life than concentrating all of your energies on a limited set of targets. Nido Qubein
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
The
Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the
public
Free of
Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> <=> GERRYs GEMZ <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond
Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
If I have to hammer secure a channel-set stone, I do not do the hammering while holding the ring in a wooden clamp. I find that the wooden holder absorbs the downward force. A better approach is to place the ring on a steel mandrel. On the steel mandrel, the hammering is total and the movement of the gold onto the diamond/stone is more definite. You can apply more downward force with less repetitive hammering motions.
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Manual of Diamond
Setting by Gerry Lewy
This new book and CD set on diamond setting is
geared to the Hobbyist, Student, Beginner,
Intermediate and Advanced Jeweller/Setter. It
is a compendium of 5 years of writing for Bench
Magazine and has over 613 pictures taken during
the setting process. This Manual sell for
$69.95 US Special Price for all E-Bench Readers
is only $54.95 plus Shipping and Handling.
For more information or to order
E-Mail Gerry Lewy at: gemz@ican.net
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Do not wait; the time will never be just right. Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along. Napoleon Hill
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Southeastern Findings
Southeastern Findings has been a leader in the wholesale jewelry business for the past 27 years servicing the Independent Jeweler. We are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry Boxes, Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much More.
Call us Today at 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web www.sefindings.com
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<=>
<=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR
JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
Ventilation
There is a real consensus that ventilation is incredibly important in having a safe studio. You need it. There is dilution ventilation, which is where you open a window next to you and another one elsewhere such that air passes past you on its way out. Dilution ventilation is not generally an effective approach.
What we really want most of the time is local ventilation, which means a sucking device, slot or tube close to the working area that is generating the dust, mist or fumes that need to be vented. The book Ventilation: a practical guide for artists, crafts people, and others in the Arts by Clark, Cutter and McGrane is a very good starting place.
A fume hood is a good idea. Sometimes one can Buy a surplus one at a government surplus equipment liquidation company. You can build one as well but you should hire a professional to do it. Use sheet metal to build it. Have a ventilation specialist check out your plans before having anything built. There are home- made options as well, but these too should be checked with a specialist before installing them. Remember that the illusion of safety can induce one to do more dangerous things than one should. Fume hoods should be tested every time you use them with a smoke trail or soap bubbles. I had two students who went to hospital with metal fume fever because they did not test an extraction system before using it.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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Information provided in this document is
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