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Here is your next issue of E-BENCH. Thanks for subscribing.
<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=> The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
August 2004 Volume 5 Issue 08 circulation over 3,200
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers and Anyone Else That Is Interested.
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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication BENCH MEDIA is a B W Simon Company Bradney W Simon – Publisher Daniel Spirer - Proofreader
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<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
PLATINUM TECHNICAL TRAINING TOUR 2004 Technical Training for Bench Jewelers This bench jeweler session will feature invaluable, practical information about working with platinum, straight from PGI’s Director of Technical Education Jurgen Maerz. Among the topics: – Platinum alloys – Ring sizing and repairs – Finishing techniques – Casting techniques & porosity
REGISTRATION Call 800 207 PLAT with your choice of tour location, number of people who will be attending and payment info. Upon receipt of registration, a final confirmation will be faxed.
FEES Payment Methods: Credit card, check or cash (at the door of event) Bench Jeweler Training: $30 per person. Stores sending five or more people receive a group discount rate of $25 per person. Beverages and appetizers will be provided for general sessions. Each session will feature raffles with exciting giveaways, and every attendee will receive a goodie bag!
TOUR SCHEDULE: DALLAS – SEPTEMBER 8 Omni Dallas Park West
HOUSTON – SEPTEMBER 9 Marriott JW Hotel
BOSTON – SEPTEMBER 21 Marriott Boston Burlington
DC METRO AREA – SEPTEMBER 22 Marriott Fairview Park
MIAMI – OCTOBER 7 Marriott Miami, Dadeland
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<=> <=> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
Making a Florentine Graver-File
highly sharpened Florentine graver to apply a standard overlapping Florentine finish. But here’s a neat trick for adapting the graver to work in a new way. It is excellent for applying this finish to wedding bands or other curved surfaces.
Take a separating disc and cut a series of about six parallel grooves into the belly of a Florentine graver, toward the handle end. Each groove leaves sharp edges, which will act like multiple cutting faces of a graver.
Now use the belly of the graver to “file” over the surface to be engraved, at an angle of 45° to the side of the ring. Go back and forth, making parallel marks on the entire band, as you move the graver-file along to the next area. Then come back at 90° for the overlapping cuts...all made with your new Florentine graver-file.
This Tip is from the forthcoming book "101 Bench Tips for Jewelers" written by Alan Revere and published by MJSA/AJM Press.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
As every divided kingdom falls, so every mind divided between many studies confounds and saps itself. Leonardo da Vinci
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
The Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online Resources. Open to the
public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles, publications, reports, and technical data on gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a sizable collection of art and jewelry galleries, for both the casual visitor and the professional, also host the popular Orchid online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=> FIRST THINGS FIRST A Bench Jeweler’s Guide to Scheduling Daily Work Part 3 of 4
Now that you have decided on all the jobs you will work on during the day, you then need to determine what to work on when.
Urgent Jobs Your first priority would be jobs that need to be picked up later in the day. If you have a job that needs to be done today place that job and the whole group that the job is in, at the front of your work tray. This will be the first group of jobs you will work on.
Additional Work Next, look for work that involves additional work that needs to be done before you can do your work, such as jewelry that needs thorough cleaning before retipping. Take these jobs out of their envelopes and place them in the cleaner, and place the envelopes in the back of your work tray to be worked on later in the day.
If someone else needs to appraise a stone before you set it make certain they have the stone and check to see when they will be finished. Then schedule time later in the day for you to set the stone after they are done with the appraisal.
If engraving needs to be done on a charm by someone else before you can solder it onto a bracelet, make certain the engraving is being done, and then schedule time for you to solder it onto the bracelet later in the day by placing the envelope in the back of your daily work tray. Anytime you have a job to do that requires something to be done before you can do your work, make certain the other work is being done, and schedule time later in the day for you to do your work.
Frogs Next, look through your remaining jobs and see if there are any jobs that you particularly dislike, any type of work that you would put off doing if you could. Take these jobs and put them in front of your work tray. If there is a job that needs to be done right away then put these jobs second.
Mark Twain once said “If you have to swallow a frog, it is best not to look at it too long.” What generally happens when we have one of those “frogs," a job we do not particularly like to do, is that we tend to put that last and do the other jobs first. By the end of the afternoon we become tired and think that we really do not have to do this now and put it off until the morning. We procrastinate. The job keeps being put off, and it doesn’t get done.
Not only does that job not get done, but while you are working on the other jobs during the day, you are thinking about that frog. It is there in your tray and you spend your whole day dreading that one job. Because of it, your productivity suffers.
Instead, do the work first that you dislike and get it out of the way. When you get that job completed you receive a sense of accomplishment and look forward to the rest of your day because that job is finished. The fun work is left and it makes your day more enjoyable. As a result you are more productive during the remainder of your work day.
Remaining Jobs How you arrange all the rest of the jobs has a tremendous effect on how productive you will be during the rest of the day. Each jeweler will arrange these jobs differently. The following methods will help you establish the BEST arrangement for you to increase your productivity.
First you must understand when the best hours of the day are for you. I am not a morning person. The only time I have been in the shop before 8 AM is when I’m still there from the night before. I would prefer to work late into the night than to come in early. The first few hours of the day are not my best hours. So I plan a group of simple jobs first thing in the morning. I take a group of sizings or chain solderings and place them in my daily work tray, either right in the front, or just behind any urgent work or frogs. Groups of more difficult work which requires my best effort, I plan to work on later in the day when I’m at my best.
Plan for interruptions. Know what time of day is the busiest in your store and plan simpler work during that time. For example; most stores are busier during lunch from 11:30 until 1:30. Don’t plan to bezel set a tanzanite, or channel set a lot of diamonds, etc. during this time. Since the store is busier with customers, the chance of interruptions is greater. If you are interrupted while working on jobs such as these it takes more time to stop your work and tend to the interruption. Instead, schedule more difficult work during the times of day that are typically quieter. You may still be interrupted, but the chance of interruptions is less. Plan on doing the simpler work, such as sizing or chain soldering, for the busy times. Then when the interruptions come, it is easier to stop your work, take care of the interruption, and pick back up on the work you were doing. By scheduling your work in this manner interruptions have less of an effect on your productivity.
Look for the group of jobs that have the largest number of envelopes in it and plan to work on that group sometime in the morning. Generally, this group is simple jobs that you can quickly work through such as sizings or chain solderings. By finishing this group in the morning, when you return from lunch to start the afternoon’s work you will see all of those envelopes in the finished stack, and fewer job envelopes left in your daily work tray. This can be a tremendous emotional boost. If you left this group until the afternoon, when you return from lunch and see all the job envelopes left to work on and only a few envelopes finished, your natural tendency is to become depressed. You figure “I only finished a few jobs this morning, how in the world can I finish all of these remaining jobs this afternoon”. This may seem like a little thing, but the difference in your attitude when seeing the majority of the work already finished and a comparably smaller amount of work remaining for the afternoon can have a major effect on your productivity.
Plan variety into your day. Working on similar work for several hours becomes monotonous for many jewelers. Right-brain creative types need variety in their day. If it is not scheduled into their day they quickly become bored. Their minds wander looking for something different to do, and their productivity suffers. Break up groups of similar work. Instead of planning a group of down sizings followed by a group of up sizings; plan to work on a group of stone setting or other different type of work after the down sizings. If you are doing down sizings in the morning, put off the up sizings until the afternoon. If you have a group of chains to solder, plan a group of totally different work before planning the group of charms to solder onto bracelets. By planning variety into your day from the beginning, you will stay interested in your work. You’ll be able to concentrate more fully on the task at hand, and as a result you will improve your productivity.
Once you have arranged your envelopes in your job tray place it somewhere beside your bench, or in a bench drawer. Then take out one group of jobs at a time to lay out on your workbench. Do not have this tray sitting in front of you on your bench staring you in the face. It’s easy to be distracted by having all the jobs in front of you.
Seeing all the work that needs to be done during the day will also add to your stress level. If you set it off to the side, you can concentrate your efforts on the few jobs that you are actually working on at the time, and not be distracted by work that needs to be done later in the day.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Wisdom … is more precious than jewels, and nothing you desire compares with her. Proverbs 8:11
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Run Your Shop Without It Running You A Practical Guide To Efficient Shop Management
With over one hundred and fifty pages of information, illustrations, and worksheets, this is the most comprehensive book on Shop Management available today.
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Only $39.95 (US dollars) plus S&H - $4.00 US, $10 International
Send your order and check to: B W Simon 106 S. Pinepoint Dr. Spartanburg, SC 29307 U S A
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<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=> <=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
KEEPING A BUR FROM FORMING WHILE SAWING By Jim Stewart
To prevent a bur from developing on a piece of ring sizing stock from sawing, change to a sawblade that has more teeth per inch (TPI). Example: a 2/0 sawblade has 62 TPI; a 3/0 sawblade has 66 TPI. Also lubricate the back of the sawblade with bees wax and lighten up on your touch; let the sawblade do the work.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
In the long run you hit only what you aim at; therefore aim high. Henry David Thoreau
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com
<=> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <=> >
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the ongoing discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many excellent jewelers from around the world.
Membership includes: Topical Discussion Channels, including Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many more. You may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips that make working with platinum or working at the bench in general - easier from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ, Director of Technical Education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
To repair a kinked herringbone chain, start by using pliers to gently push the bent links down. Then use a regular wallpaper roller to flatten the links. Be sure to roll on a sturdy surface. Once the chain is flat again, polish it at the bench with a small, rotating brush. Do not use a large polishing machine, as chains can get caught in the buffs.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Don’t let yesterday use up too much of today. Native American Proverb
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
BENCH ROM The Multi-Media Magazine for Bench Jewelers
BENCH ROM is an affordable method to learn new skills and develop your career. Discover New Techniques Learn New Tips to Improve Your Work See New Products and Technologies Demonstrated All right from your home or shop without having to travel to a seminar or trade show.
“Bench Rom is great,” says jeweler Bill Scores “It’s like being in the shop of a Master Jeweler and watching over his shoulder.”
Log onto www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom for more information or to subscribe
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<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
Cut a piece of urethane and insert it in your ring bender. Now the outside of the ring stock is not damaged as it is formed. Works great! You have a better ring shank and with no additional cleanup needed you improve productivity. Archie Woodworth
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When prong setting stones partially bend one prong over the stone. Then, bend the prong directly opposite it, not adjacent to it. Continue working down the prongs a little at a time on opposite prongs until the prongs are all down tight on the stone. This procedure will help keep the stone level while setting.
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When sizing rings with heat
sensitive stones
hold the stones under water
while soldering.
To do this use a metal
water cup (the bottom of
a soft drink can works
particularly well).
Fill the water cup ¾ full
of fine white sand
and cover with water. Then the jewelry you are
soldering can easily be
held in place by
sticking the stone into the
sand. In addition,
place a small piece of
firebrick through the
finger hole of the
ring. This helps protect
the stones, but more
importantly, it reflects
the heat back up to the
bottom of the shank,
making soldering much
easier.
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Be careful when retipping
any stone with points
such as pear, marquise, and
princess shape
stones. The thin points of the stones heat
quicker than the body of
the stone; un-even
heating of the stone can
cause it to crack. In
addition, metal and stones
expand and contract
by different amounts when
heated and cooled. A
problem develops during
retipping if solder is
allowed to flow completely
around the point of
a stone. The solder will contract as it cools
squeezing the point. This may cause it to
break off.
The best method to retip a
stone with a point
is to make a cap in the
shape of the prong.
Then with a minimum of
solder, attach the cap
to the top of the
prong. Move the flame of
your torch over the length
of the stone,
gradually raising the
temperature evenly in the
entire stone. Do not allow solder to flow
under the stone, completely
encircling the
stone point. If the prong is worn to the place
that it needs more work
than just a cap, it is
best to remove the stone
and replace the crown
or prong.
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To tighten a loose diamond
in an invisible set
mounting push on the top of
the loose diamond
with a wooden doll
rod. A section of bamboo
skewer works well, but any
wooden doll rod will
suffice. The downward pressure on the diamond
will cause the metal in the
support channel to
spread, tightening the
diamond. Push lightly
then check for tightness.
Repeat as necessary.
CAUTION: If the side walls
are thin be certain
to place the mounting in
shellac or a plastic
substitute to keep the
walls from bending out.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Strength does not come from physical capacity. It comes from an indomitable will. Mahatma Gandhi
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
New from MJSA/AJM Press The AJM Guide to Lost-Wax Casting
Learn from the masters how to achieve smooth, porosity-free castings! The AJM Guide to Lost- Wax Casting offers an abundance of best practices, handy tips, and troubleshooting techniques. How to create trouble-free master models to proper breakout procedures.
Contributing experts include: Charles Lewton-Brain, Jurgen J. Maerz, Gregg Todd, Michael Bondanza, and many more.
For sample chapters and more information, go to http://www.ajm-magazine.com/pub_press.php
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<=> <=> <=> GERRY’S GEMZ <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html by Gerald N. Lewy
Protecting the culet is one of the most basic and most overlooked areas of setting any size of stone. As this part of the diamond is one of the most vulnerable areas, it can chip easily. So how do we adjust for this potential calamity on claw settings? I always use a #009 round bur, nothing too large, but small enough to ‘free’ the culet of any touching of metal. I will literally dig down to the depth the ball. I will also visualize the location of the intended culet. Is the hole well positioned? Will it free the culet? Will the hole cut interfere with the security of the adjoining claws?
“Gerry, the Cyber–Setter!” very attached to gemz@ican.net and also involved with www.gemzdiamondsetting.com …get my drift?
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Achievement comes when you decide to live your possibilities. Anonymous
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler with over 26 years experience on the bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is an accomplished platform speaker, providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
Topics include: Shop Management Bench Tips Jewelry Demonstrations
For information on having him speak for your organization, log onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
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<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
If you know what the chemicals are that you use and what their dangers are you will be less likely to hurt yourself with them. You should have a list of the chemicals in your workshop (a chemical inventory), MSDS sheets and chemical profile sheets which tell you important information about the chemical. A chemical profile sheet is theoretically easier to read than a standard MSDS sheet. There are several places on the internet where chemical profiles are available. One is http://nsc.org/ehc/ew/chemical.htm.
Mishandling of chemicals is the main cause of accidents with them: spills, accidental reactions, contamination, breathing, etc. Because so many products contain chemicals you should ideally have information for every product in your workshop that contains chemicals as well as those clearly identifiable ones that you think of immediately when one says "chemical."
For more information on Workshop safety from Charles Lewton-Brian log onto: http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<=> <=> Thank You for Reading <=> <=>
We are on the World Wide Web. Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site, adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.
<=> <=> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <=> <=>
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Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought.
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Copyrighted, 2004, BENCH MEDIA. All rights reserved.
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