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The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
December 2002
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills. STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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“The Jeweler’s Tool of Choice” Jewelry LaserStar Workstations
Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a complete range of Nd: YAG pulse laser systems for retail and manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar Workstations are 50 watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 - 120 joules and are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford's team of highly trained direct sales and bench jeweler applications specialists are always available to review new applications, share technical expertise, and provide service and technical support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All LaserStar Workstations are made in the USA and comply with all FDA (CDRH), CSA, UL, and CE certification guidelines for safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please reference our web site at www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com
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<> <> <> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> <>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
Read trade magazines, attend industry seminars and listen to anyone who wants to give you advice. customized for your use.
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Going far beyond the call of duty, doing more than others expect - this is what excellence is all about. And it comes from striving, maintaining the highest standards, looking after the smallest detail, and going the extra mile. Excellence means caring - it means making a special effort to do more.
Wynn Davis
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At the Bench: New Book from MJSA/AJM Press
Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs, this essential bench resource offers step-by-step guides to common—and not so common—repair and fabrication techniques for gold and silver jewelry. It also offers basic bench preparation and practices (including tips for organizing tools and prioritizing work flow), a guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step projects ranging from resizing two-tone rings to setting fancy shapes, from building a bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repoussé. Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America.
Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm for a preview.
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<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <> 'TWAS THE MONTH AFTER CHRISTMAS by Bradney W. Simon
'Twas the month after Christmas, and all through the Shop. Not a jeweler was stirring, in a chair he had flopped. The shop is a mess, and the bench is a clutter. "I can't find a thing," the bench jeweler muttered.
When out in the store there arose such a clatter. He sprung from his bench to see what was the matter. Away to the front, he flew from the shop. Knocked over his lunch, and spilled soda pop.
Then, what to his wondering eyes should appear? But from the refiner a container, Oh Dear! What a wonderful time to clean-up the shop. Now, where in the world did he put the mop?
More rapid than eagles he flew. Cleaning the shop was his job to do. He spoke not a word, but went straight to his chore. He let no one disturb him by shutting the door.
In all the dirt that lay on the floor. Was silver, gold, platinum and more. The filings, and polishings, and such. It all has great value, though it don't look like much.
Laying a finger aside of the broom. He swept up the dirt from the entire room. To the top of the bench, then on to the wall. Now sweep away! Sweep away! Sweep away all!
Then on to the polisher, down into its deeps. He brushed to gather all of the sweeps. By the time he had finished, from his head to his foot. His clothes were all dirty with what looked to be soot.
The sweeps were all gathered, the job was complete. The envelopes were filed, everything looked real neat. The tools were all hung on the bench with care. When they are needed, he'll know they are there.
The shop is now done, the sweeping concluded. Organizing the tools was even included. The gold was all packaged and sent to the refiner. Now, Profits will increase, Oh what could be finer.
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For I know the plans I have for you, declares the Lord. Plans to prosper you and not harm you, plans to give you hope and a future.
Jeremiah 29: 11
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MENTAL PATIENT MAKES $50,000 a year TWISTING WIRE!!!
Yes, it's true and I can show you how to make wire jewelry and do the same thing. You can make money right from your kitchen table making wire jewelry and still keep your day job.
Please send a blank email to mailto:wireworker@royal-responder.com
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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <> Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/ By Jim Stewart
To polish platinum, you must use a crisscross pattern when you file, emery and polish. Use 600 grit silicon carbide paper and then 1000 grit. Next polish with Tripoli on separate stitched green muslin buff using GRAY 800, then WHITE 1500 and then WHITE 8000. Then buff on a loose green muslin buff charged with Carrot or Blue Rouge.
If you do all these steps and you are still getting lines on the surface of the jewelry, it is because your buff is contaminated with a build-up of polishing compound and metal, which is scratching lines in the ring. You must clean this build-up off regularly using a coarse dressing stone while the buff is spinning.
It is important to have a clean work area with separate files, emery paper, and buffs used only on platinum.
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Enjoying success requires the ability to adapt. Only by being open to change will you have a true opportunity to get the most from your talent.
Nolan Ryan
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Turn Your Computer into a Multi-Media Training Center
From the publisher of E-BENCH and BENCH Magazine comes an exciting new educational product – BENCH ROM The Multi-Media Training Experience for Bench Jewelers.
BENCH ROM is a complete multi-media educational experience presented on CD ROM. Each annual subscription includes four CD ROMs providing you quality instruction right in your shop, with over 40 minutes of video showing the actual work in progress in each issue. BENCH ROM is fully interactive allowing you to review only the sections that you want. In addition, an article you can print accompanies each project to review at your bench. Each Quarterly Issue is packed with information on Stone Setting, Jewelry Repair, Custom Jewelry Manufacturing, and BENCH TIPS!
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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>
Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ, director of technical education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
In a platinum application, welding is different from brazing because platinum is joined together by heating the metal until it is fused together. Therefore, as a guideline, you should weld when sizing a ring. However, it is not possible to torch-weld different Pt alloys together as they have different melting points.
Did you know that it takes 10 tons of ore to produce one ounce of platinum?
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The leading rule for man is diligence. Leave nothing for tomorrow which can be done today.
Abraham Lincoln
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Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/
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Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many Excellent Jewelers from around the world.
Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <> When filing areas of critical fit or precise edges, it is wise to lift the file on the backstroke and take careful, deliberate cutting strokes. This technique permits constant visual evaluation as the desired surface or shape develops.
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Change the filters on your polishing machine regularly. This not only helps profits by accumulating more precious metal dust, but also improves the health of the workers by not having to breathe all the dust and dirt into their lungs. If dust accumulates on the wall near where the air comes out of the dust collector, you have waited too long to clean it out and replace the filter.
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Jewelers need to keep in mind that change is inevitable. Customer’s requests are not just an interruption to their work, they ARE their work. It is the responsibility of the jeweler to balance the salesperson’s pressure for priority action, and completing work already in the shop. They should then see that any additional work is executed with the minimum disruption.
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To help hold wedding sets together in perfect alignment while soldering together, hold the rings together in your fingers. Next, place a small amount of super glue between the rings at their tops. Then, clamp the rings as you normally would and solder the back of the shanks together. If any glue remains when finished soak in acetone to remove.
Note: before performing this procedure make certain your soldering area is well ventilated. When heated super glue will emit toxic vapors.
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Old needle files make great burnishers. The various shapes of files provide you with an almost endless assortment of different shaped burnishers. To make the burnisher, grind the teeth off the old file being careful that you do not overheat it, as you do not want to remove the temper from the metal. Then polish the metal to a high shine.
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A mistake many beginning jewelers make when bead setting is to cut the seat too shallow, thereby not allowing them to form adequate beads to hold the stones. However, be careful when cutting that you do not cut all the way through the metal. As a general rule, cut the seat deep enough so that the table of the stone will set just below the plate surface.
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When channel setting place a strip of tape over the stones. This will keep them from bouncing out of place when hammering.
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On heavy prongs, use a small ball bur to carve a hollow area on the inside of the prong. This will make it easier to bend the prong over fragile stones.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the wrong mental attitude.
Thomas Jefferson
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SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler with over 25 years experience on the bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is an accomplished platform speaker, providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. Topics include:
For information on having him speak for your organization, log onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
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January 15 RJO Reno, NV February 22 IJO Washington DC March 2 – 4 MJSA New York, NY March 9 OJA Portland, OR March 16 NWJA Seattle, WA
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<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html By Gerald N. Lewy
The happiest diamond setter or jeweller is the guy/gal who is comfortable in their bench environment!
Keep all of your tools within close reach and don't waste precious time scrounging for your tools all over your bench. When you are finished with certain tools, put them away, and keep only the ones you need in close hand reach.
After every 1/2 hour stand up and walk around or take a coffee break. This will give your legs time to exercise and give your mind a rest also.
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The great composer does not set to work because he is inspired but becomes inspired because he is working. Beethoven, Bach, and Mozart settled down day after day to compose with as much regularity as an accountant settles down each day to his figures. They didn't waste time waiting for inspiration.
Ernest Newman
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If You Like E-Bench YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE
BENCH Magazine, a quarterly publication from BENCH Media, is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers who are masters of their craft.
From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications - Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each issue contains a Bench Tip section where you will learn tricks of the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world.
Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada, and only $40 per year for overseas delivery.
To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH
BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide
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<> <> <> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <> <> <>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
You can see some dust in the air. However, the smaller, invisible particles are the most dangerous. These particles, especially fibrous or jagged ones like asbestos, cotton, and silica, are stored between the air sacs of the lungs. That is, once you breathe them in, they will never escape again. Once there, they cause scarring, thickening of tissues, eventually stressing the heart because it is more work to breathe. Cristobalite (a rather vicious form of silica) exposure is considered a real silicosis hazard. It is a major component of casting investment.
Fumes are small particles of a material, often from metals that have been melted. These may be very tiny and can be breathed deeply into the lungs. Metal fume fever can be a real problem with molten metals. Metal fume fever can be caused by zinc, copper, magnesium, aluminum, copper, antimony, cadmium, iron, and silver.
Dilution ventilation is used in many shops, where you open a window next to you, and another one elsewhere, so that air passes you on its way out. Dilution ventilation is not generally an effective approach. What we really want most of the time is local ventilation, which means a sucking device, slot or tube very close to the working area that is generating the dust, mist or fumes so they are sucked away as they are produced: removed entirely from the workshop and vented safely (i.e. not near a makeup air intake).
For more information on Workshop safety l Charles Lewton-Brian log onto: http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
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Copyrighted, 2002, BENCH MEDIA. All rights reserved.
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