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<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
August 2001
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> Over the last 19 months of publishing this newsletter, we have heard from many of you regarding the content of this newsletter. In response to your requests, we have altered the content to bring you more tips including tips from other Master Jewelers.
REVERE FINDING TIPS Useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
TRADE SECRETS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
SIMON SEZ SEMINARS See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
FEATURE ARTICLE Learn how to make you shop more profitable, a new technique, or brush up on basic skills. LASER LESSON Tips and tricks to make using a Laser Welder easier from
GERRY’S GEMZ Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
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<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio
Finding the Right Graver By Alan Revere
on their bench top. Finding the right one can be time consuming and frustrating. Make life easier on yourself by identifying the graver on the end of the handle. First, use a slide caliper to measure the width of each graver (I find this more useful than relying on the inconsistent and arbitrary numbering system gravers come with.) Write the size on the handle using a permanent marker. Below the size, draw the shape; a "V" for anglette gravers, "W" for Florentine, "U" for round, etc. and then make a rack for your gravers. You can drill a number of holes in a piece of wood or the edge of your bench, and stick the gravers in with the handle sticking out, easily identified. Or make a wire mesh stand for your gravers by folding up a section of heavy wire mesh into a rack or by fitting a piece of this mesh into your drawer (if it is deep enough). When you have time, go over each marking on the handles with a small round bur, cutting into the wood and leaving deep lines that will outlast a permanent marker. By grouping all the round gravers, flat gravers, etc. in the rack and according to size, it will be a snap to find that 1.3 mm flat graver when you need it, as well as all the others.
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
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<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>
To straighten kinks in flat chains such as herringbone, lay the chain out on a hard surface such as a formica counter top. Then carefully roll across the kink with a wooden wallpaper seam roller. Another method to use to remove kinks is to carefully squeeze the chain between the jaws of flat nose pliers.
A bad kink may be removed with the following method. Grasp the chain between your thumb and index finger, placing one hand on each side of the kink. Then slowly rotate your hands in a circular motion in the direction opposite of the chain twist.
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When soldering rings together tack them together at 4:30 and 7:30 positions. Then, flow the solder across the back of the shank. This will keep the rings from “popping” apart if previously sized with low melting solder.
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To help hold wedding sets together in perfect alignment while soldering together, hold the rings together in your fingers. Next, place a small amount of super glue between the rings at their top. Then clamp the rings as you normally would and solder the back of the shanks together. If any glue remains when finished soak in acetone to remove. Note: before performing this procedure make certain your soldering area is well ventilated. When heated super glue will emit toxic vapors.
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Pin stems should be aligned so that the stem will naturally lie slightly above the catch, with the opening of the catch toward the bottom of the broach. To fasten slight downward pressure is exerted on the pin steam. Once fastened the pin seam will remain under tension, pressing its point against the inside of the clasp. If the clasp accidentally opens while wearing, this tension will keep the pin seam in place.
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To make certain prongs are down tight on the crown of the stone, hold the stone at eye level. Then hold your index finger about 1” above the stone. This will shield direct light from the stone, causing a silhouette of the stone and prong. Then you can easily see light coming through any gaps between the stone and prong. If necessary, tape a 3 X 5 white index card on the wall in front of your bench to provide a light background to hold the stone in front of.
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Take an old setting bur and grind the point off. Grind down just past the edge that cuts the corner for the girdle of the stone. What you have left is a wheel bur with teeth on the edges only. In essence a wheel bur with a safety edge. With this you can trim the inside edge of a bezel setting to remove the wavy edge left from pushing it over the diamond. Cut carefully so as to not remove very much metal. This will leave a smooth even edge that can be polished easily with a graver.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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If you like Trade Secrets then you’ll love Trade Secret of the Day a bench tip provided daily Monday through Friday on various Internet web sites including: http://www.jewelrydealersnetwork.com/ http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm
If you know of a jewelers’ bulletin board or discussion channel that you would like to see Trade Secret of the Day posted on, have the administrator contact me at Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Never tire of doing what is right. Apostle Paul -- II Thessalonians 3:13
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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. onto; http://www.BWSimon.com
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> > > > New Hampshire Jewelers Association < < < <
September 15, 2001 Bradney Simon will be presenting Trade Secrets – Tips Tricks and Techniques of a Master Jeweler. For more information call Paul Richter 603-437-2655
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> > > > Connecticut Jewelers Association < < < <
October 24, 2001 Bradney Simon will be presenting information from Run Your Shop Without It Running You, and Trade Secrets For more information call Ed Isenberg 860-246-6566
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> > > > Two Great Seminars for Jewelers < < < <
=> Run Your Shop Without It Running You
This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by operating
=> Trade Secrets
Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication, and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler.
“No matter how much one knows it is always enlightening and stimulating to sit back and listen to a Master share his own personal tips. This is an excellent presentation.”
To see what others are saying about this seminar go to: http://www.bwsimon.com/Testimonials/TradeSecretsSeminar.htm
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> > > > Attend Both Seminars < < < < Run Your Shop on Friday and Trade Secrets on Saturday
Chicago IL < > September 28 & 29, 2001
For additional information on these seminars or to register go to http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/simon_sez.htm
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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
CHAIN REPAIR by Jim Stewart
Take time to clean the chain because of the oils and hairspray that get inside the hollow links. You may have to clean the chain using a tablespoon of Red Devil Lye to a few cups of water at 180F. You will need ventilation while doing this. You can cut through one link on both sides using an ultra thin cutoff disc or you can lay the gold chain down on a flat piece of copper and cut the links with an X-ACTO knife. It is less costly to replace an together and solder using paste solder. Paste solder is not necessary but it is a little faster.
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
The only true measure of success is the ratio between what we might have done and what we might have been on the one hand, and the thing we have made and the thing we have made of ourselves on the other. H. G. Wells
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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>
Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ director of technical education for Platinum Guild International http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/
SIZING A PLATINUM/COBALT (Pt/Co) RING
Pt/Co is slightly magnetic and can be easily detected at the bench with a magnet.
Sizing a Platinum ring is normally done with the welding method, as long as there are no stones nearby and the ring is made of Platinum. The exception is Pt/Co, as cobalt oxidizes. To size a Pt/Co ring, 1700 seamless solder is recommended.
Roll the solder paper thin, wedge it into a very well fitting seam and heat. The seam should be very, very thin. When welded with a torch, Pt/Co may oxidize slightly. This can be removed by firecoating the object after the initial welding and re-heating it to about 1000 F. or by pickling in a 10% solution of nitric acid. The oxidation will not reappear during wear. Next, use a file to remove excess solder, and burnish the seam with a Tungsten burnisher. This should remove all traces of the seam. Now polish and clean the ring. With its good hardness, Pt/Co takes on a great polish.
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Learn from the mistakes of others. Martin Vinbee
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<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <>
TAKE-IN NOT TAKEN Part 1 by Bradney W. Simon CMBJ
A lady was apartment hunting one day and she found the perfect apartment. It was ideal for her situation. So she signed the lease and went home to start packing.
While she was packing she did what many of us would do and started to visualize where she would put her possessions in that new apartment. She could envision her couch along one wall, and she could sit there and watch TV, if she placed the TV just so. The chair would look nice between those two windows, and on she went around the new apartment.
Then it dawned on her that she could not remember seeing a bathroom. Where in the world is the toilet, she thought. Surely there was not one large bathroom at the end of the hall that she would share with the other tenants.
The more she thought about this the more concerned she became. She decided to write the landlord a letter to find out where the toilet was located. However, as she wrote she became embarrassed. She could not write the word toilet in a letter. What should she say? Then she thought of the old term Water Closet. That sounded better to her, but in her haste she abbreviated and only wrote the initials W C.
Well the landlord received the letter, and as you can imagine, did not understand what she wanted to know. What is the W C? What was she looking for? Then it dawned on him. She must want to know where the Waverly Church is located so he wrote the following response. Now keep in mind that she wants to know where the toilet is located as she reads:
Dear Madam, You will be pleased to know that the W C is located only three blocks away. It is a lovely stroll on a nice day. You will find that most all of the tenants use the facilities there. Most go only once a week, and stay for an hour or two. However, some feel it necessary to go more often. Everyone who goes there leaves refreshed, and feels revitalized. If I can be of further assistance, Please let me know.
Your Landlord
Miscommunication such as this is a major contributor to problems in business as well. In fact, many of the problems in business today are the result of faulty communication and jewelry stores are not exempt. Problems associated with poor communication happen in many areas of our stores but none are more evident than those associated with the take-in process.
Proper take-in procedures are important! A single, simple mistake during take-in can erase several months’ shop profits and dramatically affect the entire store’s profit for the year. It may also destroy your good name; a few dissatisfied customers can give you a reputation for mishandling jewelry.
Limits Liability There are many stories similar to the one just told. Proper identification, descriptions, and documentation reduces your store’s potential liability. It will minimize litigation from your neglect or misrepresentation of their jewelry.
Enhances Image Many customers are concerned with stones being switched, or their jewelry being misplaced or damaged while in your care. Following proper procedures reassures customers of your professionalism, enhancing the store’s image as a reliable source of quality repair work and new merchandise.
Increases Accuracy Complete and clear instructions assure that the desired work is performed to the customer’s satisfaction.
Improves Productivity An often overlooked benefit of proper take-in procedures is the improvement in the efficiency of your shop operation. Accurate descriptions simplify replacing repaired jewelry in the correct envelope, and everyone saves time by avoiding interruptions for additional instructions.
You need experienced, competent salespeople to handle take- ins. They do not have to be gemologists or bench jewelers. However, besides knowing proper take-in procedures, they must have some training in:
Basic Gemology How to identify and describe stones and metals
Jewelry Repair The types of work the repair shop can handle
Counter Skills Inspection, cleaning, measuring ring sizes
People Skills Communicate clearly and tactfully
The sales staff should handle all take-ins, since this process offers chances to sell other articles and services, especially when repairing the item might be more costly than replacing it. If handled properly re-mounts and sales of new jewelry can become an important part of the take-in process. Knowledge of the store's inventory and the skills of the salesperson are needed for this, and they are better prepared to meet the needs of the customer. Occasionally, even a trained salesperson needs technical help. They should not hesitate to ask the bench jeweler for assistance.
The repair envelope is the written record of the customer’s jewelry and the work they are authorizing you to perform. It is essential that this record be complete, accurate, and clear. Incomplete and inaccurate information must be eliminated if an efficient shop is to be maintained.
Be careful when placing jewelry in envelopes. Often jewelry is damaged further while stored in the envelopes. Do not force envelopes into a box for storage. This may bend or dent the jewelry. Extremely fragile jewelry should be put into a box before being placed in the envelope.
Be careful of customers’ jewelry while in your possession. Always place it in the best safe you have. If robbed it is harder to replace customer’s jewelry than your own inventory. Even if the value is lower, the difficulty in finding suitable replacements adds to the importance of caring for the jewelry.
If a customer comes in to pick-up their jewelry, and leaves another item for repair, use a new envelope for the new job. Do not cross out the instructions on the original envelope and write in new instructions next to it. It does not allow you to record an adequate description of the new piece of jewelry. Reusing an envelope eliminates the record of the original repair for your permanent file. This also causes confusion in the shop, possibly resulting in the wrong repairs being performed.
Never place more than one piece of jewelry in an envelope. If the customer brings in multiple items for repair, use a separate envelope for each article. Then complete descriptions and instructions of each piece can be recorded. Later, there will be no confusion in the shop as to what is to be done and to which piece of jewelry. Make a notation on the envelope that this is job 1 of 2, 2 of 2, etc. Then you can verify that all work is finished before notifying the customer.
Over the next two months we will look at, the inspection process, and properly filling out the job envelope.
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The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything. Edward J. Phelps
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<> <> <> <> <> LASER LESSON <> <> <> <> <>
Provided by B. Staley, Goldsmiths/Precision Laser Welding bstaley2@bellsouth.net 1.877.535.9938
USING A MASK by Bob Staley
Use a piece of sterling silver sheet to mask areas you don't want the laser pulse to affect. Hold the silver sheet between the pulse and the part you want protected. Silver is highly reflective and should offer protection against stray pulses. Just be sure to keep the silver free of the black sooty oxides that can develop. Silver is reflective but will absorb the full impact of the pulse when darkened by oxides or masked with an ink marker.
Though it can be sticky when warmed under the laser chamber lights and from the transference of heat from the pulsed metal, yellow "plasti-tack," (the stuff that softens and is used to hold sheet paper to walls without damaging the wall surface), can also be used. You can get it from your local office supply store and it can be used to cover sensitive areas and stones to guard against a ricochet.
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Things don’t turn-up in this world until somebody turns them up. James Garfield
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<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
SETTING PRINCESS CUT DIAMONDS by Gerald N. Lewy Princess cut diamonds are usually not exactly square. Before setting measure the stone and mark the long side with an indelible ink/marker. This way you won't forget which direction the stone is to be set.
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<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>
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Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <> Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many excellent Jewelers from around the world. Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More. List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application and you will receive: ** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** **
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Place Your Ad Here Over 1,200 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com
For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to: http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm
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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
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Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
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Copyrighted, 2001, B W Simon. All rights reserved.
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