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<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
April 2001
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU A feature article on shop management issues
QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING Motivational insights from some of the best
SIMON SEZ See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
REVERE FINDING TIPS This new column contains useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
TRADE SECRETS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
ON THE BENCH Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with this
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Trade Secrets – A Simon Sez Seminar
Learn Bench Tips and Tricks from a Master Jeweler
“No matter how much one knows it is always enlightening and stimulating to sit back and listen to a Master share his own personal tips. This is an excellent presentation.”
To see what others are saying about this seminar go to: http://www.bwsimon.com/Testimonials/TradeSecretsSeminar.htm
See the Simon Sez section of this newsletter
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<> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU <> <>
How Much is That Doggie in the Window? Part 2
Last month we looked at two myths about setting prices on your jewelry repairs. This month we will look at a preferred method to determine what to charge.
Imagine for a moment that there is no money. You cannot buy anything; you must barter. For example; if you need the oil changed in your car and your mechanic needs a ring sized, you could size his ring in exchange for the oil change in your car. Everybody would be happy - until you drove 3,000 miles and needed another oil change. You return to your mechanic only to find he does not have another ring that needs sizing. So you find a window washer who needs a ring sized, and you size his ring. In exchange, he washes your mechanic’s windows, who in exchange, changes the oil in your car. Once again, everybody is happy, until… .
As an alternative to trade. man devised money to simplify his life. (I bet you never thought of money as simplifying your life, did you?). You size your window washer’s ring and in exchange he pays you an amount of money equivalent to the value of the service you provide. You then go to your mechanic for your oil change and pay him an amount of money equivalent to the value of the service he provides. Your mechanic then goes to your window washer and he has his windows washed and pays him an amount of money equivalent to the value of the service he provides. Once again, everybody is happy. That is of course, as long as everybody has set their prices correctly.
You see the ONLY reason to set a price is to establish the value for the product or service being rendered and then a fair exchange of your service for their money can be made. There is only one person who decides what the value of your services are – and it’s not you - it is your customer. Your customer decides the value of your services and whether or not it is worth parting with their hard-earned cash in exchange for it.
Pubilius Syrus, a first century Roman writer stated, “A thing is worth whatever the buyer will pay for it.” Old Pubilius was my kind of guy. He was able to boil down the essences of pricing to 11 words. The Internal Revenue Service and Treasury Regulations is a little wordier. Here is an excerpt from Revenue Procedures 66-49. “Fair market value is the price at which the property or service would change hands between a willing buyer and a willing seller, if neither one is under any compulsion to buy or sell…” Sadly, over the years we have forgotten Pubilius Syrus’ advice when we set our prices. All we think about is the second part of the Treasury Regulations – the willing seller. How much am I willing to sell my services for? How much does it cost me? How little can I sell it for? Instead we should be asking, How much is MY customers willing to pay for my services?
You see, the ONLY reason a doctor or lawyer can receive more money for their services than most other people, is because their clientele believes their time is more valuable. In order to set your prices correctly you need to find out how much your clientele perceives your time is worth. When you find this out, then you will be able to price your shop services properly. There are a number of methods you can use to find this information including:
ASK business with. Ask them to review your prices. See what they feel is the maximum they would be willing to pay for your services.
SURVEYS marketing and advertising. Then include questions about prices. For example; What is the maximum you would pay for ___? Add in various repair services such as: sizing a ring, repairing a chain, retipping a prong, and replacing a post on an earring.
LABOR RATE COMPARISON what you charge for a repair. Then, they leave and spend two to three times that per hour to have their electronic equipment or cars repaired. An excellent method to determine what your customers will spend for your services is to consider what they are spending for labor on similar work being performed. What is the going labor rate in your area? Not what the laborers are being paid, but what are the stores charging for labor? Some industries to consider include: Accounting, Appliance Repairs, Auto Mechanics, Carpentry, Cleaning Services, Commercial Artists, Computer Repair, Electricians, Electronic Repairs, Graphic Artists, Lawn Services, and Shoe Repairs.
SERVICE COMPARISON customers willingly pay for similar services, and then price your services correspondingly. Consider such items as: a doctor’s office visit, an oil change in a car, cleaning heads in a VCR, painting a room in a house, having a book re-bound, a tune-up of a lawnmower, and repairing a toaster. For example, an oil change for your car takes about the same time as sizing a ring. The cost of the oil and filter is about the same as the gold needed for sizing. However, the skill level of the high school kid changing your oil is lower than your goldsmith. Therefore, the oil change has a slightly lower value than the ring sizing, and you can reasonably price your sizing slightly higher than what your customers pay to have their oil changed.
TEST PRICING the end of the period, raise them again. Gradually raise the price on each item until you receive significant price resistance. When you receive price resistance on an item do not raise that price anymore, but continue to raise prices on the other items. When significant price resistance is met on each item, you have reached the peak market price for your store.
The method you use is not nearly as important as that you find out the information from your customers. Each store’s clientele perceives the value of those services differently. Therefore, each store’s management must make their own pricing decisions based on their clientele’s perceived value of the services they provide from their shop. When you know what value YOUR clientele places on the services you provide, and therefore what prices they would be willing to pay for them, then you will know how much to price that “doggie in the window”.
================================================= <> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
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For more information or to receive a FREE trial disk, visit us at http://www.isiprint.com or call Impact at 800 – 543 – 4264 Impact – For All Your Jewelry Store Form Needs
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<> <> <> <> QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Optimists are people who, when they wear out their Zig Ziglar +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The secret of getting ahead is getting started.
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It’s not what you do once in a while, it’s what you do day in and day out that makes the difference. Jenny Craig
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If we had no winter, the spring would not be so pleasant; if we did not sometimes have a taste of adversity, prosperity would not be so welcome. Anne Bradstreet
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Shoot for the moon. Even if you miss, you’ll land among the stars. Les Brown
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When I stand before God at the end of my life, I would hope that I would not have a single bit of talent left and could say, “I used everything you gave me.” Erma Bombeck
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It’s not enough to be good if you have the ability to be better. It is not enough to be good if you can be great. Albert Cox
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You can buy a person’s time; you can buy his physical presence in a given place; you can even buy a measured number of skilled muscular motions per year.
But you cannot buy enthusiasm. You cannot buy initiative. You cannot buy the devotion of hearts, minds and souls. You have to earn those. Clarence Francis
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When wealth is lost, nothing is lost; When health is lost, something is lost; When character is lost, all is lost. German Proverb
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A little sleep, a little slumber, a little folding of the hands to rest – and poverty will come on you like a bandit and scarcity like an armed man. The Bible -- Proverbs 6:10-11
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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. onto; http://www.BWSimon.com
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> > > > JCK Show - Las Vegas < < < <
May 31, 2001 Bradney Simon will be speaking at the JCK Las Vegas Show For more information and to register contact JCK Shows: http://jck.expoplanner.com/vegas.html
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> > > > IJO Conference < < < <
August 4 - 8, 2001 Bradney Simon will conduct seminars and Bench Demonstrations at the Independent Jewelers Organization Show in Salt Lake City.
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> > > > New Hampshire Jewelers Association < < < <
October 21, 2001 Bradney Simon will be presenting Trade Secrets – Tips Tricks and Techniques of a Master Jeweler. For more information call Paul Richter 603-437-2655
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> > > > Two Great Seminars for Jewelers < < < <
=> Run Your Shop Without It Running You
This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by operating
=> Trade Secrets
Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication, and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler.
> > > > Attend Both Seminars < < < < Run Your Shop on Friday and Trade Secrets on Saturday
Washington DC < > May 4 & 5, 2001 There is still time to register Go to http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/DC.htm
Seattle WA < > September 7 & 8, 2001
Chicago IL < > September 28 & 29, 2001
For additional information on these seminars or to register go to http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/simon_sez.htm
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HAVE YOU INVENTED A NEW PRODUCT
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MVI Marketing LTD., THE Market Intelligence Company for the Worldwide Gem and Jewelry Industries, is now offering its unique NEW PRODUCT EVALUATION (NPE) directly to bench jewelers and independent retailers.
MVI’s NPE will review your innovation in complete confidence and provide you with a report, honestly evaluating its commercial potential and marketing options.
MVI is the only business consulting organization working exclusively in the worldwide gem and jewelry industries. For more information about MVI’s New Product Evaluation visit us at www.mvimarketing.com or email us at info@mvimarketing.com
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<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
Finding Something In The Ultrasonic By Alan Revere
Sometimes things get lost in the ultrasonic; a small item drops out of the basket or a stone falls out of its setting, etc. It is difficult to fish it out because it the piece is too small to grab with tweezers and the solution is too hot to put your hand into. Try using a paintbrush to sweep along the floor until you feel it and then sweep it up the sides until you can grab it.
By the way, NEVER put your hand into an ultrasonic that is vibrating. It damages your nerves!!! =================================================
<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>
When channel setting always undercut the same side of the channel on each stone. Alternating the undercut side may cause the stones to set unevenly when finished. Before cutting the seats mark one of the walls of the channel with a felt tip maker. Then you will be certain to always undercut the same side of the channel. This is particularly important if you are interrupted while cutting the seats.
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A small cotton buff for your flex-shaft can easily be made to polish recesses and other areas that are small and difficult to access. First, take an old ball bur small enough to fit into the area. Then wrap cotton around the bur by holding the bur against a small piece of cotton while turning slowly in your flex- shaft. Apply rouge to the cotton and use to polish the area.
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When setting colored stones, use a crown that is slightly larger than the crown you would set the same size diamond. This larger size is needed to accommodate the larger pavilion on color stones.
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When setting colored stones, it is extremely important to place the stone in the mounting in exactly the same position each time you test fit the stone while cutting the seat. This is due to the fact that most colored stones are cut irregularly. To assist you in this placement, draw a line on the crown of the stone with a fine tip marker. Then line-up this mark with a distinctive design element of the mounting, a similar mark with a felt tip marker on the mounting, or a mark made on the holder holding the mounting (such as a deep file mark filed into your ring clamp). When finished setting, any remaining ink can be removed with alcohol.
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Clean solutions in your ultrasonic clean most efficiently. Change the solution when it becomes dirty to the point that you can no longer see through it. You cannot clean dirt off jewelry with dirt.
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Add a tablespoon or so of hydrogen peroxide to your pickle, and it will make it work 5 to 10 times faster. Andy Green
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
CEIA USA
CEIA specializes in the manufacture of Ultrasonic Cleaning Machines and Medium Frequency Induction Melters. CEIA Ultrasonics are designed using the latest technologies. The high efficiency of the generator and the absence of moving mechanical parts guarantee the machine an extremely long lifetime. All functions are microprocessor controlled which allows for adjustable cavitation, temperature and time. Call us for a free trial.
CEIA Induction melters have achieved widespread recognition in the field of precious metal casting. All functions of the furnaces are microcomputer controlled. Digitally adjustable power gives the possibility to optimize melting times. CEIA melters offer speed of melting, purity of the alloy and very low cooling water consumption.
CEIA USA Tel: 609-631-8802 Email: jbruns@ceia-usa.com Web Page http://www.ceia.net
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<> <> <> <> <> ON THE BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <>
IT’S INVISIBLE Part 1 By Robert Gravley
For illustrations of this process go to: http://www.bwsimon.com/TradeSecrets/InvisibleSetting.htm
The majority of the invisible set styles that are available are the type where the diamonds are pressed in. To do repairs of any kind I believe you should understand how these stones are set and how to set them.
The secret to invisible setting is the precision cut rail(s) that holds the diamond in place. Manufacturers today will create a master model, the stone setter will cut the rails with the utmost precision, a mold is made and the live mountings are set with little or no alterations necessary. Newer proprietary processes will set the diamonds in a package or cartridges typically made of platinum. You can identify these cast in place settings by the two tone under-galley. The boxed settings are dropped in a wax model and cast in place. Some manufacturers claim they can do sizing on these styles without damaging the settings because the box does not move with the shank. Most or all manufacturers will not share information on design limitations.
To cut seats for invisible setting first inspect the mounting. The center rail should be significantly thicker than the cross members. Look for cracks, casting defects, and potential problems that could occur during setting. Use a bud bur to clear enough metal away to make room for the pavillion for each stone. Depending on the number of rows and or style, one or more rails need to have seats cut. The finished rail cross section should resemble a (T) shape or flattened (Y). Start cutting this T by using a 45' bur.006 and or an onglette graver 3/0 to 5/0. Cut a continuous line from one end to the other. If the cross members get in your way trim them down slightly.
The horizontal portion of this rail must have a uniform and unwavering thickness, with a tapered edge. The depth of the cut will depend on the depth of the groove in the diamonds. Practice will reduce trial and error. If more than one rail is needed, take your time, it must be the same height. The outside walls need to be undercut so the diamonds can be tilted into position. Some designs will use rails on the inside and out; the outside wall will only appear to be undercut and holding the stones.
After all trimming is complete, lay the diamonds in position; the rail you cut should be the only contact points. Any metal touching the pavillion will prevent the stone from seating in the rail. You will need to undercut the top and or the bottom outside channel wall to hide discrepancies, if any, and to have the flexibility to slide the stones and make adjustments in spacing. When satisfied that your diamonds will set evenly without damaging each other, remove them and retain their order on a waxed tray. Most manufacturers will rhodium plate the under gallery prior to setting. Use a chopstick or a hard wood dowel with a diameter slightly smaller than the table of the diamonds. Mount the dowel in a graver handle the length is up to you, but I find better control with a shorter dowel.
Set the first diamond in place using the wood dowel. Push down directly on the table of the diamond holding the tool perpendicular to the stone's table. With firm pressure push the diamond’s groove into the rail, it may snap into place. Do not force the stone down. You may have to do additional trimming to shorten the rail. Steady pressure will cause the rail to flatten and the stone to set tight. Set each stone slightly loose. When all stones are in place go back and tighten keeping the tables at the same height. Be careful of the spacing, damage occurs at this point if you are careless. The last step is to burnish the outside channel walls.
This is an over simplified explanation of how to set invisible set stones. A true understanding can only be obtained by sitting at the bench and practicing. This is an advanced technique that requires great skill with gravers and precision cutting a straight line.
Next Month we will look at replacing and tightening stones as well as sizing invisible set rings.
Robert Gravley is Atlanta Shop Foreman for the Shane Co
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<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>
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Jewelry Dealers World Trade Net
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <> Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many excellent Jewelers from around the world. Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More. List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application and you will receive: ** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** **
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