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The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
March 2001
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU A feature article on shop management issues
QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING Motivational insights from some of the best
SIMON SEZ See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
TRADE SECRETS Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
ON THE BENCH Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with this
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How much is that Doggie in the Window? Part 1
How much is that doggie in the window?
Ever since retail began people have wondered how to price their products and services. Pricing decisions are perhaps the single largest determining factor as to whether or not a company makes a profit and how much of a profit it will make. If you set your prices too low, you will end up with a loss. If you set your prices too high, customers will go elsewhere.
Services, such as jewelry repair can be even more difficult to price than products. Services are non-tangible; you cannot touch or hold them. You can see, hold, and feel a ring but you cannot see, hold, or feel a ring sizing. This creates pricing difficulties as you do not have tangible things like stones or metal to base a price on. Rather than being able to see advantages such as the number or size of stones, customers have to depend on such ambiguous characteristics as reputation or image of the person providing the service.
Services are also non-transferable. A ring sizing cannot be returned. You cannot transfer a ring sizing to another ring, nor give it away or hand it down to another person. Services are also non-storable. You cannot stock up on ring sizings during the slower summer months and have them available for the rush during the Christmas season.
In addition, with the services you perform you do not have a manufacture’s cost or suggested retail price to work with, as you do with jewelry and watch products. This all leads to problems when we try to set prices for our jewelry repair services.
In the jewelry industry there are two mythsabout setting repair prices that flourish among retailers. This further complicates the already difficult process of setting repair prices. The first myth is setting your prices based on what others charge.
There is a story of a man who worked in a factory. He lived on the opposite side of town from the factory and every day he would walk through town on his way to work. Each morning as he passed though the downtown shopping area he would stop in front of the finest jewelry store and stare in the front window. He would gaze through the window for a moment, look at his watch, and then continue to work.
The storeowner grew so perplexed by this man’s behavior that one day he went outside to meet this man. The jeweler said that everyday he saw him staring though his window and he was curious as to what he was looking at. The man told the storeowner that it was his job to blow the noon whistle everyday at the factory, and he took his job very seriously. So everyday he would stop in front of the store because it was the finest jewelry store in town. He would look through the window at the store’s clock and check his watch to make certain his watch was correct. This way he was assured that he would blow the noon whistle precisely at 12 o’clock noon.
The storeowner told the man he admired his dedication to his job. “In fact,” the storeowner said, “you are so accurate in performing your job, that for years we have set our store’s clock by the factory’s noon whistle.”
After years of carrying out this ritual, is there any way that either of them had a clue as to what the correct time really was?
For years, jewelry store owners have set their prices for jewelry repair by calling all the stores in town and base it on what the other stores charge. If you use this method to set prices, you are setting your prices based on stores who have most likely set their prices based on what you had charged in the past. After years of carrying out this ritual, is there any way that any jeweler has a clue as to what the correct price should be for jewelry repairs?
You cannot set your prices correctly in your store just by calling the other stores in town and setting your prices accordingly. The second myth to setting repair prices is to set your prices based solely on your cost.
A real problem develops when we set our prices based solely on our cost. At the end of the year we evaluate our jeweler’s performance and based on the shop’s income we determine if we can afford to give our jewelers a raise. Now, if we set our prices based on what we pay our jewelers, and pay our jewelers based on what we collect from the prices we set, is there any way either can be correct.
In addition, isn’t it obvious that if our income (the prices we charge) is based on what we pay our jeweler there will never be extra money to give our jewelers a raise. Commissions do not solve this problem either. If you set your price, and the commission the jeweler receives, based on how long it should take the jeweler to perform the work; the only way for them to make more money is to do the work faster than they should be doing it.
Unless we set our prices based on the value of the services we provide; we will never have the money to pay the kind of wages that reflect the value of our jeweler’s labor. When we as an industry start charging prices based on the value of the service we provide, not only will the stores’ profits increase, but also we will finally be able to provide the wages to our jewelers comparable with the wages paid in other skilled professions.
When you determine the value of your services you will then know how much to price that “doggie in the window”. Next month we will look at methods to help you determine what your customers believe the value of your repair services to be.
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Impact Specialties Introducing our new form filling and repair management software We have developed this new software to be used in conjunction with our laser repair envelopes, cut sheets and cards. This software will enable jewelers to computerize their process. Impact Repairware features repair location tracking, parts and inventory database, customer database, special occasion tracking and a variety of reports. It is available in single user or multi user and features a watch repair and jewelry repair form. Impact Repairware can be used to provide estimates, appraisals and receipts.
For more information or to receive a FREE trial disk, visit us at http://www.isiprint.com or call Impact at 800 – 543 – 4264 Impact – For All Your Jewelry Store Form Needs
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Sometimes the difference between loving your job and hating your job is all in your attitude. Zig Ziglar
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Your destiny is not a matter of chance: it is a matter of chose. Many people have the right aims in life – they just never get around to pulling the trigger. When you determine what you want, you have made the most important decision in your life. You have to know what you want in order to attain it. John Mason
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I’m a survivor – being a survivor doesn’t mean you have to be made out of steel. And it doesn’t mean you have to be ruthless. It means you have to be basically on your own side and want to win. Linda Ronstadt
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Over the years, many executives have said to me with pride: “Boy, I worked so hard last year that I didn’t take any vacation.” I always feel like responding: “You dummy. You mean to tell me that you can take responsibility for an $80 million project and you can’t plan two weeks out of the year to have some fun?” Lee Iacocca
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Forget about likes and dislikes. They are of no consequence. Just do what must be done. This may not be happiness, but it is greatness. George Bernard Shaw
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And I will do whatever you ask in my name, so that the Son may bring glory to the Father. You may ask me for anything in my name, and I will do it. John 14: 13 &14
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Bezel & Flush Setting With Diamonds and Colored Stones Training Videos By Blaine Lewis
This video is advertised as a “Classroom in a Box” and that is exactly what it is. It comes with two training videos, two practice mountings, stones to set, a bezel punch, tool templates so that you can make the tools demonstrated, and a piece of candy (a layout tip is demonstrated using the candy; however before I got to that place in the video I had eaten the candy).
Blaine Lewis, founder of the New Approach School for Jewelers presents in these videos a revolutionary training system utilizing ultra-high magnification. Then, just when you begin to think you understand the technique, Blaine integrates stunning 3-D computer animation demonstrating the setting techniques. This combination of ultra-high magnification and 3-D computer animation allows the learner to fully comprehend what is transpiring during the setting process.
Through viewing these videos and practicing the techniques taught you will learn systematic methods for multiple layout procedures, proper bearing cutting, bezel and flush setting techniques for round and fancy shaped stones, enhanced tightening methods, tool making, clean up tips and much more. Blaine Lewis teaches a unique method of flush setting softer colored stones utilizing an innovative tool which he not only demonstrates how to make, but also provides a template assisting you in making this tool for your own use.
After studying this video training system and practicing the techniques, any jewelers can flush set soft colored stones without fear of damaging the stone. This is without a doubt the best training video available on the subject of flush & bezel setting gemstones. Blaine Lewis’ easy-to-follow detailed instruction is Fantastic. The only recommendation I can offer to improve this training package is to include more candy!
For additional information go to: http://www.jewelryvideos.com/
Bradney W. Simon, CMBJ
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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. onto; http://www.BWSimon.com
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> > > > JCK Show - Las Vegas < < < <
May 31, 2001 Bradney Simon will be speaking at the JCK Las Vegas Show For more information and to register contact JCK Shows: http://jck.expoplanner.com/vegas.html
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> > > > IJO Conference < < < <
August 4 - 8, 2001 Bradney Simon will conduct seminars and Bench Demonstrations at the Independent Jewelers Organization Show in Salt Lake City.
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> > > > New Hampshire Jewelers Association < < < <
October 21, 2001 Bradney Simon will be presenting Trade Secrets – Tips Tricks and Techniques of a Master Jeweler. For more information call Paul Richter 603-437-2655
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> > > > Two Great Seminars for Jewelers < < < <
=> Run Your Shop Without It Running You
This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by operating
=> Trade Secrets
Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication, and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler.
> > > > Attend Both Seminars < < < < Run Your Shop on Friday and Trade Secrets on Saturday
Oakland CA < > March 30 & 31, 2001 There is still time for you to attend. For information go to: http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/Oakland.htm
Denver CO < > April 6 & 7, 2001 There is still time for you to attend. For information go to: http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/Denver.htm
Washington DC < > May 4 & 5, 2001
Seattle WA < > September 7 & 8, 2001
Chicago IL < > September 28 & 29, 2001
For additional information on these seminars or to register go to http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/SimonSez.htm
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MVI’s NPE will review your innovation in complete confidence and provide you with a report, honestly evaluating its commercial potential and marketing options.
MVI is the only business consulting organization working exclusively in the worldwide gem and jewelry industries. For more information about MVI’s New Product Evaluation visit us at www.mvimarketing.com or email us at info@mvimarketing.com
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The difference in one size is 1/10 of an inch or 2.54 millimeters. For simplicity 2.5 millimeters is used in actual practice. If a ring is to be sized up or down one size 2.5 mm is either added or removed from the shank.
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Anneal wedding bands prior to setting stones into them. Die struck seamless bands are work hardened during the manufacturing process. The hardened gold is difficult to push over a stone when channel, bead, or flush setting. Annealing the band before you begin will make setting much easier.
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Paint whiteout over engraving on the inside of rings before sizing or soldering wedding sets together. This will keep the solder from flowing over the engraving.
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Grind a knife-edge on the end of an equaling needle file. Then it will be easier to insert into a joint to true it up before soldering. This works particularly well on truing up the seam in a ring shank when sizing.
Another method to true a seam before soldering is to saw through the seam with a saw blade, trimming a little metal from each side of the seam.
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You should always take great care when filing that you do not remove too much metal. It is impossible to replace the metal removed. When filing to remove excess solder, often the mistake is made of filing too much resulting in thinning the metal. Stop filing when the outline of the solder is just barely visible. Sanding to prepare the metal for polishing will remove the remaining solder. If you continue to file until all evidence of the solder is removed the sanded metal will be thinned more than necessary.
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On heavy prongs, use a small ball bur to carve a hollow area on the inside on the prong. This will make it easier to bend over fragile stones.
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When setting colored stones with an uneven pavilion in clusters or as side stones, set the thicker portion to the outside of the mounting where it will receive more abuse. If the stone is set with the thinner edge to the outside it may be chipped while wearing.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
CEIA USA
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CEIA Induction melters have achieved widespread recognition in the field of precious metal casting. All functions of the furnaces are microcomputer controlled. Digitally adjustable power gives the possibility to optimize melting times. CEIA melters offer speed of melting, purity of the alloy and very low cooling water consumption.
CEIA USA Tel: 609-631-8802 Email: jbruns@ceia-usa.com Web Page http://www.ceia.net
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Fit to be Sized
Before sizing any ring examine it carefully and compare it to the information on the job envelope. If you see any damage or potential problems that are not marked clearly on the envelope, inform the store manager or sales clerk who took in the job so that they can notify the customer. It is extremely important that you inform them now, before any work is performed, rather than wait until later to inform them.
Measure the thickness and width of the ring shank and record these measurements on the job envelope. Having these measurements may save you from doing a half-shank later if the customer complains that you thinned the shank too much during sizing.
While examining the ring, measure the ring’s current size and determine if you need to size it up or down. Divide your sizing jobs into four groups: rings to be sized down, rings to hammer up, rings to size up, and wedding bands to stretch. By organizing your ring sizings in this manner and working on all the rings in each group togetheryou will increase your productivity.
Always anneal wedding bands prior to stretching or compressing with a ring stretcher. Die struck seamless bands are work hardened during the manufacturing process. This hardened gold is difficult to stretch or compress. Annealing the band before you begin will reduce the amount of physical force that you will need to apply to accomplish the task. A ring stretcher is not designed to double as a nautilus machine. In addition, if the metal is not annealed the stretching or compressing process may cause the metal to crack.
To stretch a wedding band that is larger than your ring stretcher mandrel, slip a copper sleeve over the mandrel and place the ring over the sleeve. The mandrel will press out on the copper sleeve, which in turn will press out on the wedding band stretching it to a larger size. To make the sleeve purchase a 3/4 inch copper pipe coupling from a plumbing supply store. Then using a hacksaw, cut slits down the length of the coupling. Make four to six cuts to line up with the slits on the mandrel on your stretcher. Make all the cuts from one end and cut 3/4 of the length of the coupling. This will allow it to expand easier and will make it easier to remove the ring when finished.
Sizing heavy gent’s rings creates additional problems because of the metal thickness in the shank. Straightening the ring on a ring mandrel can be particularly challenging. Using a Lead-filled weighted rawhide mallet or a dead-blow mallet will provide the extra force needed to make this job easier. In addition, one of these mallets can be used to force the ring down on a ring mandrel when opening a shank up after sawing through the shank.
Heavy duty “Bow Pliers” available from most jewelry tool suppliers are indispensable in closing the gap in down sizing. Be certain to cover the jaws with leather or copper to avoid marring the outside of the ring. Sometimes it is necessary to use a rawhide mallet to hammer the shank into position. A bench mounted ring shank bender is a welcome asset in shaping pieces for up sizing and half-shanks.
When soldering heavy gents rings avoid the temptation to use a pick to smear the solder around the joint. This will result in a weak solder joint, known as a cold solder joint, as the solder flowed only at the surface and not through the seam. Make certain you have a tight fitting seam and apply solder to only one side of the joint. Then, with the heat of your torch pull the solder through the seam to the other side.
For highest productivity in the shop, take all the rings to be sized down together. Then one at a time mark the back of the shank for the amount of gold to be removed from each shank. When all the rings are marked, then pick up your saw. Saw through all the rings without putting down the saw.
When finished sawing, pick up your ring bending pliers and bend all the shanks closed. Make sure there is no visible gap; hold the ring up to a light to see that there is a precise fit. Group rings on your bench as to metal content and color, 14k yellow together, 14k white together, 18k yellow, etc. Then place enough solder on your soldering pad to solder all of the rings closed. Make a small pile of solder for each metal type.
Then begin the soldering process. Hold the torch in one hand and with the other hand pick up a ring with locking tweezers; dip the ring in boric acid and alcohol. Set the ring down on your soldering pad and light it with your torch. Arrange several rings across your soldering pad in this manner. Then, with the solder pick in your free hand, pick up the solder and solder the ring shanks closed.
Place the rings aside on your soldering pad to cool, and pick up another group of rings as before. As the alcohol is burning off, pick up the solder with a pick, and solder the shanks of this group. Lay them aside to cool, and move on to the next group.
With this process, you can solder all the rings closed without ever placing the torch down. You light the torch once and do not have to re-light it for each separate job. When you are finished soldering all the rings, turn your torch off. Place the cooled rings in the pickle and begin to work on the rings that go up.
Size the up sizings in a similar manner. When they are all soldered, place them in the pickle and take out the rings you sized down. Rinse and dry them off and begin to file with your half-round ring file. File each ring on the inside so that it is smooth. File off excess solder only on the inside of the rings at this time.
Then lay the file down and pick up the ring mandrel and mallet. Taking one ring at a time, slide it onto the ring mandrel and straighten it out; check to make certain you have reached the right size. After you have straightened each ring, pick up your file again. File the sides and back of the shank, removing the excess solder and hammer marks on the outside of all the rings.
When you have finished filing each ring, take the rings that you sized up out of the pickle rinse and dry them off. Repeat the
then straighten each ring and then file the outsides of the rings. When all rings to be sized are filed, sand all of the shanks, polish, and place them in the cleaner.
If you only have a few rings to size you can size the down sizings and up sizings together. Solder the piece on one side of the up sizings. While they cool, solder the down sizings. Then bend and solder the second side of the up sizes.
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Jewelry Dealers World Trade Net
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <> Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many excellent Jewelers from around the world. Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More. List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application and you will receive: ** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** **
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Place Your Ad Here Over 1,000 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com
For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to: http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm
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Copyrighted, 2001, B W Simon. All rights reserved.
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