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<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
November 2000
YOU ASKED FOR IT! That’s Right – You asked for it and we’re going to give it to you! We appreciate all the responses to our recent survey. Plans are under way to implement several of the items. 79% of respondents asked for pictures to be included in E-BENCH. Often a picture can make the instructions much clearer. However, many of you expressed concerns including; your e-mail program will not read pictures, and it will add considerably to the download time for everyone. Beginning with this issue we are trying an alternative. We will continue to send E-BENCH as text only. However, we have included a link to a web page with drawings or photographs to go along with a bench tip or article. Let us know how you like this new addition. Additionally, over 82% (the highest response to any question) feel there is a need for a print magazine devoted to bench jewelers. We have begun plans to develop one. Look for the Name The Magazine Contest later in this issue. Watch for announcement in future issues of E-BENCH for other great improvements based on the results of the survey. (((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING SIMON SEZ TRADE SECRETS ON THE BENCH Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with this feature article. ================================================= <> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU <> <>
The Omission of Commissions A story is told about Don Drysdale, the famous pitcher for the Los Angles Dodgers. One year the Dodgers offered Mr. Drysdale a bonus if he kept the amount of walks he pitched under a certain number for the year. Management wanted to keep the number of opponent base runners to a minimum. It seemed like a good idea to offer a bonus on limiting the number of free passes to first base. As the story goes, when he had a three ball no strike count, facing the fact that one more ball and the batter would walk would hurt his chances of receiving the bonus, he would throw AT the batter. If he hit the batter, they would reach first base on a hit batter charge, not a walk. A hit batsman did not count in his contract, only walks. Don Drysdale received his bonus that year, and the Dodgers learned to be more careful in establishing what they wanted to accomplish in setting their bonuses. Many retail jewelers have felt the same disappointment as the Dodger management. Wanting to produce more work out of their shop, they put their jewelers on commission or a similar incentive program. However, what they found is that the quality of work dropped as the jeweler hurried to finish more work. In addition, large time-consuming jobs lay around the shop unfinished as quicker jobs were finished, earning the jeweler more money. Putting jewelers on commission can have its benefits, and many jewelry stores have found it advantageous to do so. However, doing so may create problems for many stores. First, it puts all the responsibility of increasing productivity on the jeweler. Granted, there are those jewelers who need this motivation to get work done in a reasonable amount of time. However, there are many issues that influence productivity that are beyond the control of the jeweler. These include take-in procedures, shop design, job information control, interruptions, lack of equipment, work conditions, etc. The front-end of many stores are so disorganized that it is impossible to run a productive shop. For management to put their jeweler on commission in these circumstances is irresponsible. In addition, many jewelers do not know how to be productive. They are not taught in school how to schedule jobs and organize work to be more productive. To put them on commission and make it their problem without providing training is also irresponsible. Before management puts any jeweler on commission, they need to take a long hard look at these issues and make necessary changes. You need a store with the front-end set up efficiently before you can expect jewelers to function under a commission system. The second problem is pricing. Many stores have their prices on repairs set far too low. They lose money on repairs and make it up on sales of new merchandise. Putting jewelers on commissions in these circumstances is totally irresponsible of management. If the price you charge is too low, then the commissions you pay would also be too low, and your jeweler would have no method to make up for it as you do with sales. Before putting your jewelers on commission make certain your prices are set correctly for your store. Do not just copy someone else’s prices. Do the work and make certain your prices are right for your area. My computer program “From Fee to Shining Fee” can help you set your prices properly. The third problem with jewelers on commission is it only motivates the jeweler to produce more work. However, most stores want more from their jewelers. In addition to quantity, they want quality, they want jobs finished on time (when promised), they want a team player, they want a jeweler to come to work on time, etc. A jeweler on commission will have the natural tendency to do the work that pays more and not do or procrastinate on the other jobs. As the saying goes: What Gets Rewarded Gets Repeated. A problem arises when management says one thing but rewards something else. For example: you can preach till you are blue in the face about quality but if you reward only quantity then speed is what you are going to get. For example: A jeweler may hurry through 10 jobs performing mediocre work and receive only one or two back because of not reaching standards. He can re-do those two jobs in less time than it would take to slow down and do all ten jobs correctly. Or a jeweler sizes a ring, checks all the stones, and tightens the loose ones, as you would expect him to do. However, if you only reward speed (by paying commissions) then it would be faster for him (and more profitable) to size the ring and turn it in. When you check it and find loose stones and return it to him he tightens them. He spends no more time sizing the ring or tightening the stones. However, he saves a lot of time by not checking the stones on all the rings he sized. If you want both (quantity and quality) you need to reward both. If you try to gain both by rewarding one and punishing the other when not received (making them do it over without pay) you will not get the second item if they think the added reward out weighs the punishment. You are only fooling yourself if you think you will get something just because you ask for it, yet reward something else (ask for quality but reward speed regardless of quality). To run an efficient shop you must be consistent with what you say you want, and what you reward. In addition, just because work is up in the shop does not mean profits are. For example, a jeweler may solder a crown and set a stone, but in his haste he melts three crowns. The job may be done quickly, the shop’s output increases, and the jeweler’s commissions are up, but profits are down. Or it may be quicker to use too large a piece of gold stock to size a ring up and then file down (a waste of inventory) then to roll out the correct size gold stock. The work gets done quickly but profits are down because of it. Tying performance together with compensation is a good method of motivation. Just be certain you know what performance is being compensated. Don’t pay your jewelers for limiting walks, and allow them to hit the batters! An incentive program such as paying commissions is not a one size fits all. It may or may not work for you. Just like there are different ways to re-tip a prong, set a stone, or size a ring, there are different methods to run a shop and motivate a jeweler. ================================================= <> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <> Impact Specialties Introducing our new form filling and repair management software We have developed this new software to be used in conjunction with our laser repair envelopes, cut sheets and cards. This software will enable jewelers to computerize their process. Impact Repairware features repair location tracking, parts and inventory database, customer database, special occasion tracking and a variety of reports. It is available in single user or multi user and features a watch repair and jewelry repair form. Impact Repairware can be used to provide estimates, appraisals and receipts. For more information or to receive a FREE trial disk, visit us at http://www.isiprint.com or call Impact at 800 – 543 – 4264 Impact – For All Your Jewelry Store Form Needs ================================================= <> <> <> <> QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <> If we all did the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astound ourselves. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If you want to avoid traffic, Get on the road to success. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If a man has a talent and cannot use it, he has failed. If he has a talent and uses half of it, he has partially failed. If he has a talent and learns somehow to use the whole of it, he has gloriously succeeded and won a satisfaction and triumph few men ever know. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Nothing stops the man who desires to achieve. Every obstacle is simply a course to develop his achievement muscle. It’s a strengthening of his powers of accomplishment. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I am the vine; you are the branches. If a man remains in me and I in him, he will bear much fruit; apart from me you can do nothing. ================================================= <> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <> Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; he provides Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. For information on having him speak for your organization visit us on the web at http://www.BWSimon.com ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ => Run Your Shop Without It Running You This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by operating an efficient jewelry repair shop. It contains innovative and practical information that you can use in your store. Topics include: Pricing, Take-In Procedures, Productivity in the Shop, Employee Development, and Much More. For additional information on this seminar go to http:// BWSimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/simon_sez.htm Atlanta < > March 9, 2001 San Francisco < > March 23, 2001 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ => Trade Secrets Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication, and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler. For additional information on this seminar go to: http:// BWSimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/simon_sez.htm Atlanta < > March 10, 2001 San Francisco < > March 24, 2001 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Additional dates and locations are being planned for 2001. If you would like Brad to speak in your area contact him today. mailto:Brad@BWSimon?subject=Seminar Schedule ================================================= <> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <> HAVE YOU INVENTED A NEW PRODUCT Now you can have it evaluated by professional marketing experts. MVI Marketing LTD., THE Market Intelligence Company for the Worldwide Gem and Jewelry Industries, is now offering its unique NEW PRODUCT EVALUATION (NPE) directly to bench jewelers and independent retailers. MVI’s NPE will review your innovation in complete confidence and provide you with a report, honestly evaluating its commercial potential and marketing options. MVI is the only business consulting organization working exclusively in the worldwide gem and jewelry industries. For more information about MVI’s New Product Evaluation visit us at http://www.mvimarketing.com/ or email us at info@mvimarketing.com ================================================= <> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <> Drill a 3/8” hole in the center of your muslin buff wheels and then place on the tapered spindle of your polishing motor. This larger hole will allow the wheel to move up further on the tapered spindle. You can then place an inside ring buff on the remaining tapered spindle. You can then use both the inside ring buff and muslin buff wheel with out stopping the motor and changing the buffs. To view picture log onto http://www.BWSimon.com/TradeSecrets/BuffWheel.htm ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The biggest difference for jewelers working with platinum is soldering. Because of the high temperatures, welding goggles MUST be worn to protect your eyes. However, because they are so dark it makes seeing and finding items difficult while soldering. As an alternative, I devised a clip to attach a welding goggle lens plate to my torch body. The clip is made from a heavy paper clip. It holds the lens plate above the torch tip, right where needed when soldering or fusing. Then while working, I can easily see around my bench, and my eyes have adequate protection where needed. To view picture log onto http://www.BWSimon.com/TradeSecrets/PlatinumLensPlate.htm ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Do not point your torch directly on fine chains or other thin metal, as they melt easily. Instead place the chain, wire, or other metal on a ceramic pad. Then direct the torch on the pad next to the metal and let the reflected heat melt the solder. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ When soldering rings together tack them together at 4:30 and 7:30 positions. Then, flow the solder across the back of the shank. This will keep the rings form “popping” apart if previously sized with low melting solder.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ An easy and fast way to mask a piece of jewelry to be plated, e.g. rhodium plating white gold parts of a two-tone ring, is to use a "sharpie" fine point marker (any color will do). Paint the area of the piece you don't want the plating solution to touch then give it a second to dry (one coat will do) then bath or pen plate your jewelry. Rinse and dip in "attack" glue remover to remove the masking. This is much faster than using any other method of masking. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com ================================================= <> <> <> Name The Magazine Contest <> <> <> In our recent survey we received an overwhelming response to start a print magazine for bench jewelers. After speaking with several in the jewelry and magazine industries, we believe the technology is now available to produce an affordable full-color print magazine devoted to bench jewelers. We anticipate this magazine will be out sometime late next year. We need your help in naming this new magazine. Send us an e-mail with the name you think we should call the magazine. Entries must be received by December 20 th. Finalist will receive a copy of Run Your Shop Without It Running You, and the winning entry will receive free admission to a Simon Sez Seminar. In case of duplicate names the first entry received will receive the prize. Send your entry to: e-bench@BWSimon.com with Contest as the subject mailto:e-bench@BWSimon.com?subject=Contest Help Us Name The Magazine. Send In Your Entry Today! ================================================= <> <> <> <> <> ON THE BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> Cutting Azures To view Picture go to http://www.BWSimon.com/TradeSecrets/Azures.htm Azure is the American English derivative of the French term a jour or adjoure. An azure is a countersunk cutout on the back of jewelry, behind bead, channel, or flush set diamonds. Usually azures are a square or triangle shaped, resulting in what looks like bright cutting on the backside of the jewelry. It is an important aspect of diamond setting that is often neglected today. Reasons for Cutting Azures 1) Allows light to enter the stone from the back. (With the modern cut of diamonds, this is no longer a major issue as it was 100 years ago) 2) Makes it easier to clean behind the stones. 3) Removes the burs left from drilling the hole. 4) Adds an additional design element to the jewelry. 5) Removes excess metal from the jewelry making the piece lighter in weight. This is of more importance in larger pieces of jewelry, especially earrings. 6) Provides the jewelry a Professional looking finish. The Traditional Method Traditionally bench jewelers would either hand cut azures with a graver, or feed a saw blade through each hole and meticulously cut each opening. Although resulting in fine cut azures, both methods are extremely time consuming. A Simpler Method Many jewelers today cut azures using a bud or cone bur. This produces a round cone shaped cutout. This method is quick and easy, and it does remove the burs left from drilling and allows for easier cleaning behind the stones. Although, better than no clean up at all, it does lack in adding a design element to the back of the jewelry. It also does not maximize the removal of metal to lighten the weight of the jewelry. This method should be seen as the minimum requirement, and avoided on finer, high- quality jewelry. Cutting Azures Using Burs Professional looking azures can be cut fairly easily using a combination of burs, in considerably less time than cutting by hand using gravers or a saw. Cutting Azures with burs is an advanced technique. Only bench jewelers who have developed their skills of cutting with burs should attempt it. As with learning any new technique – practice cutting azures on a piece of scrap metal before attempting to use this technique on actual jewelry. Although a square shaped cutout is most common, a number of different patterns or combination of patterns can be created with azures. Before beginning to cut the azures sketch different pattern designs to find one that is most pleasing to you and fits the area of the jewelry. By combining triangular, square, pentagon, hexagon, or octagon shapes a variety of designs can be made. To begin, cut a tapered hole with a bud bur in the backside of the hole drilled for the stone. Then, using a hart bur held perpendicular to the jewelry, cut the corners in each hole. Start at the center of the hole and cut a line upwards to the surface to form each of the corners. Next, use a small wheel bur to clean away the metal between the corners. Use the end face of the bur to cut the flat side of the azure. Caution: Make certain you hold the bur at an angle to the surface of the jewelry. Cutting straight down will remove the metal needed for the seat to hold the stone. Then use a polished flat graver to clean up and polish your cuts. If necessary, a small bristle brush with rouge can be used to polish the azures. With a little practice, you can easily cut professional looking azures in just a few minutes. ================================================= <> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <> Namano / Southeastern Findings Service to the Manufacturing Jeweler We are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry Boxes, Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much More. Greater Selection - Expanded Inventory - No Minimum Order Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web http://www.sefindings.com +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Jewelry Dealers World Trade Net <> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <> Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many excellent Jewelers from around the world. Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More. List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application and you will receive: ** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** ** +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Place Your Ad Here Over 900 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to: http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm ================================================= <> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <> We are now on the World Wide Web. Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there. Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site, adding additional useful information for bench jewelers. <> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <> We value every subscriber and respect your privacy. We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers for any reason. Your Email Address Is Kept Strictly Confidential. To subscribe, send an E-Mail with Subscribe as the subject mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Subscribe If you do not wish to continue receiving this newsletter send an E-Mail with Unsubscribe as the subject mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Unsubscribe If you change your e-mail address PLEASE let us know. Each month we have several newsletters returned to us because the e-mail address is no longer in service. We have no alternative method of contacting you, and cannot send you future issues unless you notify us of your new e-mail address. mailto:E-Bench@BWSimon.com +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should besought. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests, please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com Copyrighted, 2000, B W Simon. All rights reserved. |