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The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
February 2000
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <> LEADERS EDGE QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING FEATURED PRODUCT TRADE SECRETS SIMON SEZ ON THE BENCH READERS RESPOND EMPLOYMENT NEWS <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * LEADERS EDGE * * * Take-In Not Taken part 1 A lady was apartment hunting one day and she found the perfect apartment. It was ideal for her situation. So, she signed the lease and went home to start packing. While she was packing she did what many of us would do and started to visualize where she would put her possessions in that new apartment. She could envision her couch along one wall, and she could sit there and watch TV, if she placed the TV just so. The chair would look nice between those two windows, and on she went around the new apartment. Then it dawned on her. She could not remember seeing a bathroom. Where in the world is the toilet, she thought. Certainly there was not one large bathroom at the end of the hall that she would share with the other tenants. The more she thought about this the more concerned she became. She decided to write the landlord a letter to find out where the toilet was located. However, as she wrote she became embarrassed. She could not write the word toilet in a letter. What should she say? Then she thought of the old term Water Closet. That sounded better to her, but in her haste she abbreviated and only wrote the initials W C. Well the landlord received the letter, and as you can imagine, did not understand what she wanted to know. What is the W C? What was she looking for? Then it dawned on him. She must want to know where the Waverly Church is located. So he wrote the following response. Now keep in mind that she wants to know where the toilet is located as she reads: Dear Madam, Miscommunication such as this is a major contributor to problems in business as well. In fact, many of the problems in business today are the result of faulty communication. Our jewelry stores are not exempt. Problems associated with poor communication happen in many areas of our stores but none are more evident than those associated with the take-in process. Proper take-in procedures are important! A single, simple mistake during take-in can erase several months' shop profits and dramatically affect the entire store's profitability. It may also destroy your good name; a few dissatisfied customers can give you a reputation for mishandling jewelry. Limits Liability Enhances Image Increases Accuracy Improves Productivity You need experienced, competent salespeople to handle take-ins; they do not have to be gemologists or bench jewelers, however, besides knowing proper take-in procedures, they must have some training in: Basic Gemology - (How to identify and describe stones and Jewelry Repair - (The types of work the repair shop can handle) Counter Skills - (Inspection, cleaning, measuring ring sizes) People Skills - (Communicate clearly and tactfully) The sales staff should handle all take-ins, since this process offers chances to sell other articles and services, especially when repairing the item might be more costly than replacing it. If handled properly re-mounts and sales of new jewelry can become an important part of the take-in process. Knowledge of the store's inventory and the skills of the salesperson are needed for this, and they are better prepared to meet the needs of the customer. Occasionally, even a trained salesperson needs technical help. They should not hesitate to ask the bench jeweler for assistance. The repair envelope is the written record of the customer's jewelry and the work they are authorizing you to perform. It is essential that this record be complete, accurate, and clear. Incomplete and inaccurate information must be eliminated if an efficient shop is to be maintained. Over the next two months we will look at, the inspection process, and properly filling out the job envelope. <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING * * * Some Thoughts on Love for Valentines Day Love is an irresistible desire to be irresistibly desired. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Love is not blind, it sees more not less; +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Love has nothing to do with what you are expecting to get. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Many people talk about loving others. When you care about the other person's desires, feelings, and well being more than you care about your own, then you know you have love for that person. Until you have that, it's just talk. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Love is like a violin. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Love is what makes two people sit in the middle of a bench when there is plenty of room at both ends. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The most important thing a father can do for his children is to love their mother. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Love is patient, love is kind. It does not envy, it does not boast, it is not proud. It is not rude, it is not self-seeking, it is not easily angered, it keeps no record of wrongs. Love does not delight in evil but rejoices with the truth. It always protects, always trust, always hopes, always perseveres. The Bible - I Corinthians 13: 4 - 8 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Let us love one another, for love comes from God. This is how God showed his love among us: He sent his one and only Son into the world that we might live through Him. We love because he first loved us. The Bible - I John 4: 7, 9, & 19 <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * FEATURED PRODUCT * * * Run Your Shop Without It Running You A Practical Guide To Efficient Shop Management By Bradney W. Simon With over one hundred and fifty pages of information, illustrations, and worksheets, this is the most comprehensive book on Shop Management available today. Learn a variety of methods to improve the profitability of the jewelry shop, including: How to Set Correct Prices and How to Avoid Costly Mistakes at Take-In. Learn methods of increasing productivity without sacrificing quality, including: Organizing and Scheduling Jobs, Shop Design, Organizing the Bench, Motivating the Bench Jeweler, and Many Other Topics. This Valuable Guide Is A Must In Every Retail Jewelry Store Here is what others have said: This is going to be one of those classic books that comes to mind whenever someone asks about going into the trade or gets serious about making their shop profitable. There is a lot of practical business sense and many bench tips. Very well done. An excellent reference guide and tool for jewelers. The guides on profitability are very well laid out as well as the take-in guides and shop layout. Jewelers will definitely benefit from this book. I recommend it to all. If you have a shop or are going to install one, you should buy this book. It's great on setting things up in an orderly fashion for best efficiency, which speeds things up and lowers cost. Buy this book, it's a good one. Brad reviews much that should be common sense, but unfortunately is often overlooked. It is good to see it laid out and explained from a bench jeweler's perspective. Thanks Brad for such an informative manual. Only $39.95 (US dollars) Send your order and check to: <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * TRADE SECRETS * * * When setting colored stones with an uneven pavilion in clusters or as side stones, set the thicker portion to the outside of the mounting where it will receive more abuse. If the stone is set with the thinner edge to the outside it maybe chipped while wearing. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ To make certain prongs are down tight on the crown of the stone, hold the stone eye level. Then, hold your index finger about 1" above the stone. This will shield direct light from the stone, causing a silhouette of the stone and prong. Then, you can easily see light coming through any gaps between the stone and prong. If necessary, tape a 3 X 5 white index card on the wall in front of your bench to provide a light background to hold the stone in front of. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ When setting stones with large pavilions, test fit the stone table down. When the stone fits in the seat table down, you can be certain the seat is cut properly to accommodate the girdle of the stone. Then all remaining cutting on the prongs needs to be done below the girdle to accommodate the pavilion. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ When soldering pieces of tubing to a piece of jewelry to make knuckles to form a hinge, place a piece of pencil lead (graphite) through the tubing. This will keep the tubing lined up while soldering. The graphite will withstand the temperature for the solder to flow and you can easily remove it when cool. Various diameters of pencil lead for mechanical pencils can be purchased from office supply stores. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Attach a sponge lightly saturated with oil to your rolling mill. Place one sponge above the top roller and one sponge below the bottom roller. As you use the mill the sponges will keep the rollers clean and the oil will keep them from rusting. You can keep them in place with binding wire. Just make sure you keep everything away from the gears. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Drill a 3/8" hole in the center of your muslin buff wheels. Then place on the tapered spindle of your polishing motor. This larger hole will allow the wheel to move up further on the tapered spindle. You can then place an inside ring buff on the remaining tapered spindle. You can then use both the inside ring buff and muslin buff wheel with out stopping the motor and changing the buffs. <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * SIMON SEZ * * * See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person at the following Events. Run Your Shop Without It Running You <> All-Day Seminars This brand new all-day seminar will be offered in 22 cities during 2000. This seminar will help retail jewelers increase profits by operating an efficient jewelry repair shop. It contains innovative and practical information that you can use in your store. Topics include: Pricing, Take-In Procedures, Productivity in the Shop, Employee Development, and Much More. Spartanburg, South Carolina <><> February 19 Plus 18 other cities throughout the year. For a complete list of Dates and Locations We would like to Thank the following Sponsors who make these Seminars possible. Impact Specialties, Inc. Southeastern Findings & Namano Gesswein Co, Inc. Southern Jewelry News ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Other Speaking Engagements Kansas Jewelers Association <><> April 1 & 2 Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker and provides Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. For information on having him speak for your organization send an e-mail to mstrjwlr@spartanburg.net <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * ON THE BENCH * * * To V or Not To V To V or not to V? That is the question. Whether it is nobler in the minds of thou customers to place upon their marquise a prong in the shape of a V, or dost thou leavest it exposed to the concerns of the world. Ok, Shakespeare I'm not. However, for the bench jeweler the question remains. What do you do with this prong in the shape of a V? Several shapes of stones have pointed ends, including marquise, pear, heart, and princess. Because these points are thin and fragile, it is important to protect them with a prong. This is particularly important on rings where the stone is subjected to more abuse than in pendants, earrings, or broaches. Although a standard prong will suffice, a V shaped prong is preferred. A V-prong provides additional protection and more securely holds the point of the stone. Special care must be taken when setting these stones to keep from chipping or breaking the point. Extensive preparation is necessary, and work must be executed with precision to properly set them. Nothing short of true craftsmanship can be exercised while attempting to set a stone with pointed ends. The seat in the V-prong can be cut with a variety of burs, gravers, drill bits, or files. There is no one best method. The method used will depend on the situation and one's own preference of tools. The following is the basic procedure I most often follow. Using a small heart bur cut a line on the inside of the prong at the height you want the girdle of the stone. Check and double- check that this line is at the proper height, is straight, and level. In addition to beginning to form the seat, this line will serve as a guide to base all future cutting on. If this line is off it will be near impossible to set the stone straight. This line does not have to be very deep at this point (it can be cut deeper later). However, do not cut into the prong more than 1/3 the thickness of the prong. Next turn the bur 90° and cut a line down the center of the prong. This cut, along with the first cut, will form a cross-shaped pattern in the prong. This second cut will allow clearance for the pavilion of the stone. It is particularly important on the heavier cast V-prongs. Then using a bud bur, cut a hole in the center of the cross. Cut no further than ½ the way into the prong. This hole creates the void surrounding the tip of the stone. Make certain there is a cavity below AND above the tip of the stone. Putting pressure on the tip of the stone from above with no support underneath will cause the point to break off. Finally trim away any excess metal and smooth the seat using a polished flat graver. How you cut the seat is not nearly as important as what you accomplish. The seat you cut in a V-prong must accomplish three items: 1. A smooth even seat must be cut which will support the sides of the point on the stone. 2. A void must be cut to surround the very tip of the stone. 3. Enough metal must be removed to safely push the top of the prong over the stone, yet leaving enough metal to securely hold and protect the stone. Once the seat is completely cut, examine it for these items with a loupe or microscope. Examine the seat first, then lay the stone in the setting and re-examine it. One small bur of metal or ripple in the seat is all it takes to break the point off a stone. ALWAYS check the stone with a loupe or microscope before you begin to push the prongs over the stone. Then check AGAIN once the prongs are part way down and the stone no longer rocks. The small amount of extra time taken to check the seats can save a lot of heartbreak latter. With pear or heart shaped stones, bend the V-prong over the stone first. Then push the remaining prongs over the stone, tightening it in the setting. On marquise shaped stones, bend the side prongs over the stone first, securing it into the setting. Then the V-prongs are adjusted down over the points. The V-prong should be seen as protection to the fragile points rather than used to actually hold the stone. Several methods can be used to push the prong down onto the stone. A prong pusher can be used to gently roll the metal over the stone in the same manner you would push a bezel down. First, push on one side of the V, then the other. Alternate sides until the prong is tight against the crown of the stone. Chain nose pliers with polished jaws can also be used. Place one jaw at the top of one side of the V, and the other jaw at the base of the opposite side of the prong. Gently squeeze one side down a little, then reverse the position of the pliers and move the opposite side. Work back and forth until the prong is down on the crown of the stone. Another method using chain nose pliers is to place both jaws at the top of the outside edges of the V. Make certain the jaws are at the top of the prong well above the girdle of the stone. Angle the pliers to match the angle of the crown facets. Then gently squeeze the pliers together. As the pliers come together at the point of the V, the jaws will burnish the metal down onto the stone. Keep repeating the procedure until the metal is tight against the stone. As you work, excess metal will form between the pliers' jaws, making a line at the point of the V. This excess metal needs to be removed with a file. Some jewelers cut a V in the top of the prong leaving two tabs to push over the stone. Then once the tabs are down the seam is soldered closed. This method works fine on diamonds, but cannot be used on most color stones. There is one danger, however, in using this method on diamonds. If excess solder is used it can flow into the void providing clearance at the tip of the point. As the solder solidifies it contracts. This can cause the point to chip or break off. Once set, trim and shape the outside of the prongs using a #6 needle file. Be certain the file has a polished safety edge to avoid the possibility of chipping or abrading the stone. Trim and clean up the inside edge of the V with a polished flat graver. Remove the file marks with an abrasive rubber wheel and polish. Remember: Caution Is The Better Part Of Valor. If you feel uncertain while setting, STOP, take a deep breath, check all your steps, examine the setting with your loupe, then proceed. If you still feel uneasy, take a break, get a drink of water, and relax a bit. Then re-examine the setting and proceed to finish the setting. Follow these steps and you will not suffer a fate such as Juliet and her Romeo. "Parting is such sweet sorrow, Farewell, Farewell, I bid you Farewell…." <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * READERS RESPOND * * * Awesome newsletter Brad! Could I get copies of any previous issues? That would be a real blessing. Editors Note: Good job on your E-Bench newsletter debut. I particularly liked the bench tips section. <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> * * * EMPLOYMENT NEWS * * * Bench Jeweler Employment News is a FREE service for Retail Jewelry Stores and Individual Jewelers. No Employment Agency Request Accepted. For your free listing submit your request in 50 words or less to E-BENCH at mstrjwlr@spartanburg.net and type Employment News as the subject. Your request will be printed in the next issue. To keep this area current, your listing will be printed only once. If the position is not filled, you will need to re-submit your request to be printed in the next issue. This is for shop personal ONLY. Request for sales or store manager positions will not be accepted. No blind ads available. POSITIONS AVAILABLE Bench Jeweler Needed. Mainly repairs with some custom opportunities. Work with and learn from our JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler. Live in beautiful South Carolina with both the mountains and the beaches near by. Benefits include: Health Insurance, 401k, & Bonuses. Call Louis at Smithworks Fine Jewelers 864 - 573 - 5252 AGS store in Upstate New York. Good quality of life with lots of lakes and outdoor activities. Looking for a good Bench Jeweler to do repairs and some custom work. Must be able to work with minimal supervision. Benefits, Good Working Environment, and opportunity to earn some money depending on ability 30K +. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ SEEKING EMPLOYMENT <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> Thank You for Reading. For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests, please send an E-Mail to mstrjwlr@spartanburg.net. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Information provided in this document is provided 'As Is' without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it without modification and not just portions of it. Copyrighted, 2000, B W Simon. All rights reserved. |